6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I believe in ant bait because they drag it back to the Queen and the entire ant house gets a dose of it. I think of it as imploding the nest from the inside out. Any ant who wants to live can go to the neighbors if they're smart enough!
If your tomato plants get too leggy you can add soil around the stem and more roots will grow out of the stem.
Other than that I'm no help. I'm very jealous. Does that count? I'm trying to grow seeds in sunlight, no grow lights. I love it that you're worried what the neighbors think! Once they see the garden they'll know you're not packing up your plant leaves to sell on the corner. lol
Heidi
Update on lighting set up
These should be at the most 2-3 inches and some within half an inch of the light. I have it tilted on one side so I can have the larger plants under it as well.
I have a mix of bulbs in the fixtures, 1 Daylight 6500k and 1 Cool Neutral 2000k in each. There's also some supplemental light from outside, but very little if any direct sunlight.
Did my seedlings have to rough of a start to truely thrive? I'm thinking buying another light (oh gosh lol) since I've run out of room and start another set of plants. Its getting a little late now but its time to start squash and zukes inside I think?
I also have a few low-light plants below the seedlings, which is why I have the seedlings in the clear trays (upside down domes since they're useless now that I've learned they promote damping off) so that they can get some light on the lowest level.
Pepper and eggplant seeds take longer time to germinate at low temperature. The optimum is 85F (+/- 5F). At 85F i have germinated hot pepper seeds in about 6 days. Minimum is about 65F, at which temperature might take 3 weeks to germinate. Tomatoes require less heat and the cool crop seeds are even less demanding.
So the general rule is that the colder the germinating medium is, the longer it will take.
Here is another method for you to study about how to plan vegetable
Here is a link that might be useful: shop vouchers
Thanks for the advice so far. I have a few followup questions.
1) I can certainly fill gallon bottles of tap water for watering. The only problem I see is draining the flats after watering. I typically fill a flat with water a couple of inches then drop in those cell packs that look like they need watering. When I see the soil is moist on top (~30 min or so) I remove them, and all I would need is an easy way to dump the dirty water from the flat. Perhaps a 5 gallon bucket will do the job?
2) Regarding the fungus gnats, why do you say they will be less of a problem in the basement? What prevention methods are there if any other than overwatering? Should I just hang those yellow sticky traps from my ceiling joists in the vicinity to contain them in case I do get an outbreak?
3) Can you buy sterlized growing soil? I thought last year I purposely bought a good (expensive) starting mix (can't recall the name).
4) Regarding the insecticidal soap with water...is there a specific home-made solution that is effective and organic at the same time?
5) I need to look into portable sinks/drain tubs. Something not expensive but also something compact and lightweight that I can put away in my attic when not in use. Suggestions?
6) Regarding the fan, what size and how would you use it to create the right amount of circulation to assist in.
Hi again njitgrad,
Regarding your questions:
1) The bucket: Sounds to me like the 5 gallon bucket idea would work. Also, if you thought youâÂÂd be able to use that water again, within a reasonable time, you probably would not have to dump it.
2) Bugs/Fungus gnats: Having less of a bug problem in the basement was actually an assumption on my part. IâÂÂve never grown plants in my garage. But, I would think the garage, being more open to the outside, would be more prone to bug problems.
About the fungus gnats⦠the best prevention is probably making sure the growing medium does not stay overly wet. The larvae (usually in the top inch or so of the growing medium) develop pretty quickly. The emerging adult females only live for a short while (a week or so I think) but during that time they can lay a lot of eggs :-) So, hopefully the yellow sticky traps will get them before they have a chance to lay their eggs. Some folks have reported having success treating the growing medium with a Hydrogen Peroxide solution. IâÂÂve never had enough of a fungus gnat problem to try that however.
Anyway, if you use the yellow traps, they need to be very close to the plants (and under the lights), the closer the better. Hanging them from your ceiling joists will probably not work.
3) Sterilized growing soil: Soilless growing mediums are considered sterile. Just make sure the bag appears to be well sealed when you buy it :-) I germinate my seeds in Miracle Gro Seed Starting Mix and then pot-up the seedlings later into MG regular Potting Mix (which feeds the seedling for up to 3 months).
4) Insecticidal soap: IâÂÂve used âÂÂSaferâ brand Insect Killing Soap for years with great success. I get the concentrated stuff, much cheaper in the long run. ItâÂÂs OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) listed and compliant for use in organic gardening. However, IâÂÂm sure you could fine some recipes on the web if you prefer to make your own.
5) Portable sinks: IâÂÂm sure there are plenty available but they may not be cheap. I know Coleman makes a small one (available at Walmart or Amazon) that sells for about 45 bucks. Also, you might want to look around on eBay.
6) The fan: You donâÂÂt want a large powerful fan of course. Any small cheap oscillating fan should work fine. I have mine on a timer that runs the fan (for about an hour) several times a day.
Hope this helps,
Art
I always like when you can find unique varieties in the stores. For example I found a dwarf version of cilantro from Ferry Morse in the Lowes seed display. I'm interested in having short, bushy plants. I seeded some last night, so wil see how they turn out.
All three major seed companies that I know ( Ferry Morse, Ed Hume, Burpee) are basically similar in quality, quantity and somehow limited in variety. Putting all 3 of them together you can find most of what you need, unless you are after hard to fond varieties. I buy their seeds off the rack at the big box stores and rarely order seeds by mail.
It is referring to the soil temperature, not air temps. Air temps are not relevant to germination so you have to measure the soil temp. If germinating indoors then the soil needs to be maintained at or near 68 and if direct seeding outdoors then the soil temp needs to be 68.
Soil temps don't change as quickly as air temps do so once the soil temp reaches 68 outside it would take several days of colder temps for it to fall.
Hope this helps.
Dave
There is another very popular gardening site that has extensive resources for finding suppliers for seeds and plants. If you google 'plant scout' or 'garden watchdog' you'll find the site. GardenWeb is apparently worried about the competition and so won't let us post a link to that site here. I like GardenWeb for discussions, but the other site has this one beat hands-down, IMO, in the reference and referral departments. Both sites have their advantages and are best used together.
As was alluded to earlier, there are probably well over 100 very good retail seed suppliers/sources out there. If you narrow it down to at least a category (vegetable seeds, seeds of perennials, seeds of annuals, native seeds, woody plant seeds, etc, etc), you might get some specific recommendations.
When you do find a potential source, review that source's ratings on Garden Watchdog before entrusting them with your order/money.
I order from Stokes seeds, Vesey's seeds, T+T seeds in Canada and they all ship to the States. With the exchange in the dollar now you might get a good deal.
I also order from Park seeds in the States because they have good prices and our dollar has been at par for a couple of years. It's dropping now so it depends on what the Canadian dollar does in the next year whether cross border shopping will be worthwhile next year.
Put my glasses back on and, yep, they look like Echinops. Echinops are hairy kimonos with a stick like seed inside. I have never dissected Sea Holly - those are hairy triangles with hairs/spikes on top.
Grow both - they are both great plants. I have several of each and really love them. I don't clean the echinops because I am very allergic to them and their little prickly hairs. Sea holly isn't so hairy, so it's a little better.
It's my understanding that echinops doesn't germinate all that well and many of the kimonos don't germinate. I haven't tried to grow them from seed as they re-seed nicely for me, but others on the winter sowing forum report success, but not that great germination.
Those are a great variety. I guess I should have been more clear above when I stated they don't like competition and should be thinned. This is only if you want them to get to maximum height and flower size. If they are planted en mass, not thinned and left to fight for themselves they will be considerably smaller in both height and flower size, yet still have a dramatic effect.
Good luck with them :)
SCG
I don't have experience with this pepper specifically, but my pepper plants are often forming fruit before I plant them out, with no ill effects that I have seen. Last year I know I harvested a few small seranos while they were indoors.
This however, is much earlier than I have ever started them. You should probably pot them up to larger containers if you are going to let them fruit.
The typical suggestion is to remove any flowers so your plants aren't expending energy early setting fruit, but rather directing that energy to roots and stems. They should catch right up and flower again when you do get them outside....I don't think your overall harvest will be any fewer peppers, it seems to be easier on the plants which may then be smaller overall if allowed to fruit under 'less than ideal' conditions. For many of us, hours spent inside are less ideal than outside. (our hobby lights)
1st set of leaves like the 'starter' leaves? Or the first set of true leaves?
I'm no expert, but I think the 1st set are starter/baby leaves, like baby teeth (I like analogies XD). They fall out after true leaves start to form. At least, that's happening for me.
Nearly all seedlings start with a set of them, then their true leaves grow after that. x_x *tries to be helpful and a contributing member!* Posting a picture though will help you get more correct info too.
The image I included is a two week old tomato plant of mine and my 'baby teeth' leaves have begun to curl and die. I think that's normal, but maybe someone will come tell us its not in a while. ^_^
The first leaves that emerge from the soil are cotyledons which supply food to the new plant until it gets its first true leaves. They then dry up and fall off.
Ideally, the cotyledons should remain at soil level. When there is a lot of stem showing below them, it usually means the plants aren't close enough to the light source, and are stretching too much to reach the light. Move the light closer, about one inch from the plants.
With most plants, when you plant them outdoors, bury the stem in the soil right up to where those cotyledons were.
1) I have used chamomile tea, I think it works. But, If you use sterile starting mix, you should not have any fungus problem.
2) Maxim, are you in Israel ?. In the US, you can buy shop lights, already wired and ready. Just put bulbs(tubes) in it, hang it. I bough mine from HD. They are 48"- T8 (2 bulb per unit). Total cost : $20 with the bulbs. I bough one, then the second one, now I need to get third one. They are very efficient. Give out more light and less heat. But what the heck, the heat is used too, not wasted.
Hi Duncan_Forster and welcome to GardenWeb!
Well, IâÂÂve never grown tea plants before but a quick check on the web indicates that the seeds should be planted one inch deep. That means they donâÂÂt need any light, until they germinate (which should take between one and two months). So for now, donâÂÂt worry about lighting.
As for watering, there should be very light condensation on the inside of the dome. If the condensation runs down the side of the dome, youâÂÂll know youâÂÂre keeping things too wet. Since the seeds take so long to germinate, youâÂÂll have to be very careful about not over-watering. It would probably be helpful to remove the dome altogether for awhile, when you're home and can watch that the germinating medium doesnâÂÂt dry out too much.
For warmth, I understand that the medium should be kept between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Hope this is helpful and I wish you the best with the tea plants!
Art
Ah, thanks so much, that answers my question! It seems I may have watered them a little much so I'll remove the dome and let the soil dry out a bit before replacing it. Thanks for the help, all of the internet sources I looked at were rather unclear about watering.
All the best,
Duncan
Sorry but even with over 50 years in the nursery business I have never heard the term "fungal wicking" applied to plants. "Stretch-wick" either. Can you tell me what the source of those terms may be?
So I am going to guess that what you are asking about is damping-off, a fungal disease that kills seedlings and is characterized by stem lesions at or just above the soil level. Is that the issue? If so then the primary cause of the problem is soil that is kept too wet and lack of sufficient air circulation (small fans are recommended).
If adjusting your lights solved your "stretch-wick" then the usual term is "leggy" seedlings - elongated stems that cannot support the weight of the leaves and is caused by insufficient light.
Hope this helps. If I am way off base with my guesses could you provide more detailed descriptions or pics of the plants.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: pics of plants with damping off
No, you're pretty much spot on. I haven't been in the business. At all. Very much an amateur. I've seen both wick and damping used in internet conversations, but at the time of posting wicking was all that came to mind. I'll try to use damping in the future do as to avoid confusion. Its possible my soil was a bit too wet, though I tried to press out any extra moisture without compressing the mixture too much.
Air circulation could be a major factor for me. The only area in my house I can set up my seed station without infringing on the wife and kids is the laundry room and there is not much air movement in there. But this might help explain why my success went up last year after moving my station outside when weather permitted.
Thanks for the info. I'll see what I can do about increasing air movement, but my outlets in the laundry room are pretty much full.