6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Most are bulbs or rhizomes rather than seeds. Angel Wings (aka Caladium) comes in many different color combos. Any of the many fern varieties. Hosta - lots of choices - as long as the soil mix is well draining but they won't work if the soil is constantly soggy.
So why is the soil "soggy" and can't it be improved?
Dave


susanzone5 z5NY on
Fri, Oct 5, 12 at 16:05
you can avoid fungal growth by having air circulation and sprinkling powdery sphagnum moss on top of seeded soil.
I'm glad to see someone mentioning this. In the university laboratory I found sprinkling powdery sphagnum to be quite helpful.

with rockwool cubes versus seed starter mixes
I have used both and feel the two are so different that they really can't be compared over all. For hydroponic growing rockwool obviously wins over mixes although there are better than rockwool hydro plugs available too..
But for growing on in soil (non-hydro), mixes are far superior IMO.
Compare germination percentages - only marginally better with mixes but when it comes to transplanting them for growing on, both root development and proper moisture level problems arise with the rockwool when it is surrounded by soil.
These problems can be adjusted for with some plants - those normally grown from transplants like tomatoes and peppers - but if you are also going to be growing things that are normally direct seeded and NOT transplanted - like beans, peas, spinach, cukes and such - then their growth in rockwool is only more stunted after transplanting than it would be if grown in mix.
Dave.

I start them in plastic six paks by sprinkling seeds on top of soil. When planting out, I break apart the plants and plug them into the ground about 5" apart. I don't bother to thin out any plants. Each plug has up to six seedlings. They fill out nicely.

I missed this "The effects of that stress will vary with plant types but summer vegetables such as pepper and tomatoes plants will not tolerate it at all."
If my pepper plants are stressed from my system they sure don't look it. The pepper seeds were sown ~ February 15th.


Here's one for you. A couple of years ago we visited my son-in-law's grandmother's home. She had a rosemary bush 8" to 10" trunk diameter They had just cut it back & got a pickup truck load of rosemary but it was still about 5' tall. She said that she started that "tree" some years back with a sprig from a neighbor which she rooted by putting it in a glass of water until she saw roots & then planted it. It was in a raised bed. I so liked it that I bought the largest rosemary plant I could find, made a 3'x3' raised bed just for it. It is growing fine but heaven knows how long it will take it to get any size. I am going to prune off branches at the lowest point to help the trunk reach a greater diameter sooner. That tree was unbelievable!!

I just have to say that I planted 44 rosemary seeds and have 8 seedlings about and inch to an inch and a half tall. I had 14 of them germ, but I think some were a bit small when I put them under the light and they didn't make it. I am still pretty happy with 8. I did the primed rosemary from Swallowtail. They germ. in about a week. I might have to try again next year just to see if it was a fluke or something :).


Thanks folks! I tried placing the probe of the digital heat mat thermometer directly into one of the flats & that fixed my problem (ie, gave me an accurate reading), after I'd cooked several flats of seeds, of course...........
I've never had an issue with putting the probe in a separate plastic cup of wet growing media, in years past....... Hmmmm........

riograndegal - Hazzard's Greenhouse has lots of cleome seed types for sale including a plum color and a lavender. You could buy seeds then trade what you don't need/use (they sell in bulk). I ordered from them last winter and the seeds arrived in a matter of days from when I placed the order.

I think I'm in zone 6a (Natick, MA). The reason I started them all at the same time is because I am in college, so plant my seeds when I come home for spring break in mid March. However if I need to start some earlier or later my dad will do it, I just have to get over my fears that he'll do it wrong lol.
As for fertilizer we just use miracle grow every few weeks on the garden. We did wait a little too long this year to start fertilizing if I remember correctly.
It sounds like with the squashes I started too early and so they were stunted when I transplanted them. We don't want to plant directly in the garden, so I'll be using your advice on transplanting before they get 3 sets of leaves.
My parents go on vacation every year in April, I'm away at school during this time, so my brother was left in charge of watering. He didn't. This year we'll probably ask my uncle to do it instead.
Thank you for the information on different varieties, I've never been picky about what variety I buy, so I'll pay more attention to that.
My dad always worries about the amount of sunlight our garden gets, he's always said it isn't enough. Neither of us actually know how many hours of sun it gets though. But he thinks that's our biggest problem. He is planning on having a tree cut down, but he's been planning on that for a couple of years, so we'll see.

Yeah you have some definite handicaps to work around then. Sounds like you are going to have to find a gardening partner to fill in the gaps.
Rather than trying to get all the things into the garden at the same time and before mid-May, why not focus on just a couple of things - like say tomato plants. Then you can direct seed the squash later in May.
Dave

Couple of things:
Gardenweed -- I agree with others, beautiful hand!
Grease Pencil -- I have heard pencil works best to not fade. I made the mistake of using sharpie permanent marker. It wasn't.
Everyone using plastic stakes/markers; I use wood because it is a renewable resource, is inexpensive, and pencil writes well on it. Yes, eventually they rot; which is good! I hate digging in my garden and finding plastic tags from bygone years! Those using copper (expensive these days), etching, recycling blinds, etc -- kudo's to you! But that is too much work for this lazy gardener! Wood and pencil...simple and cheap; which is probably why that is what my grandfather used decades ago!
Stick with wood!

I know there has to be a way to do it successfully since i have talked to a few growers who are happy using it.
Apparently the length of the wicking piece and the distance in height between the water source and the plants is the key to controlling the amount of water that actually reaches the plants. I've just never figured It out correctly. Good luck with it.
Dave

After a couple of days of thinking about it, I removed the capillary mats.
It did not make sense to me (after the first wave of resistance and rationalization because I had by then bought the mats and set up the system) to flirt with overwatering, the factor which leads to much seedling death.



Exactly what I'm going to try. Thank you very much.
Gary
I grow lots of poppies and don't find them to be a problem if, as stated above, you thin to one in each pot and don't bother the root ball. So for the ones in your cell packs thin the seedlings to one in each pot. If you need to pot up just transplant the whole cell, as Campulana described.
I adore poppies, just wish the flowers would last a bit longer.