6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
It is a function of the parental lines - i.e. the prior hybridization, polination, etc. I am unaware of the lines for cecile brunner and ballerina, but your seeds could be any of the roses used in the hybridizations upstream from your cross. Not likely that all 4 will be the same though it is possible.
You're finding conflicting information because there are so many different types. Of those most cold hardy and reliably perennial, some are warm/cold/cool germinators and would benefit from sown approximately 70F for 2-4 weeks, move to 35-40F for 4-6 weeks, then to 50ishF for germination.
Germination can be improved in others by a 90 day moist chill, and the types grown as annuals can be sown warm with no pretreatment. Are these purchased or traded seeds, if traded, can you find out which aristolochia...
This seems to be an anemone hupehensis cross. The normal suggestion for a. hupenhensis is to sow at 68F, if no germination in 3-4 weeks, provide a brief moist chill of 2-4 weeks (40ishF), then bring back to warm for germination.
Sometimes knowing a moist chill may help to break dormancy, it's a time saver to just begin with that and not wait to see if necessary. It won't hurt the seeds if they would have germinated without it, and may help.
It's just one study, but you might want to read through this before committing to starting seeds in coir. I have no personal comparison to add, haven't used it for seeds -
Here is a link that might be useful: Coir vs Peat
Agree with the above - there are some issues associated with using straight coir. It works much better as a secondary component of the mix rather than the primary ingredients IMO. The quality of the coir used can also make a big difference.
In our GH we have done some informal comparisons between coir and peat based mixes and find a somewhat better level of germination with the peat mixes. Plus the peat based mixes (or a 2:1 peat to coir mix) have less fungus gnat issues and slightly better root development.
The finer the grind of coir the better the results it seems. We tied some bulk supplies of coarse ground coir and got very poor results from it.
Granted these are very unscientific results and there are lots of variables than can affect the results, but as you are going to have enough issues arise from using the worm castings that I'd encourage you to incorporate peat into your mix.
Dave
Is the 'breaker (color break) stage' of tomatoes the same as what some people call "first blush"?
Yes. There are several stages of color break but what is sometimes called first blush (blush of developing color at the blossom end) is the first stage. At that point the seeds are mature and the fruit will continue to ripen to full color either on or off the vine.
Dave
For seeds to mature, in certain fruits, they don't need for the fruit to be on the plant (after a given stage). Seed draw nutrients from the fruit itself. But it is different for seeds of flower, eg. Because in that case the seeds are in fact the fruits.
if you are making a "WILD" garden, with no order, no priorities then you would just broadcast the seeds late winter or early spring.
But if you have a vision to have a garden by design, then you either sow the seeds in flats/pots and the transplant them in the garden, according to size, color of flowers, flowering time ..etc. Or if you can afford buy the plants from nurseries.
In a newly started perennial garden you can add some annuals to complement until the perennials grow and fill the space. But eventually, you should not plant any annuals in a perennial garden. UNLESS you know exactly the vacant spots.
Beets will usually, in most climates, go to seed next year when it starts to get noticeably warm.
Your other questions are better discussed at Vegetable Gardening - GardenWeb. I think you will find there that you can overwinter beets with enough mulch and that some varieties may sometimes get a bit sweeter during the early winter.
yeah, mine overwinter....but they are pretty huge and gnarly, fit only for roasting and borscht......nothing like those little golfball summer beets. In truth, I mainly grow them for the leaves cos I am not keen on quite a lot of root crops (parsnip....gah!)...but essentially, they are biennial so will bolt to seed next year around May (for me).
It is normal to transplant when you have two or more true leaves, using height of the plant as a guide is not good practice as there is too much variance with plant varieties. I can not indorse what you have in mind regarding planting now for next years planting. You could have, a couple of months ago outside and had enough growth established to survive the winter, at least for those perennials hardy where you live. You would be better off starting your seeds inside for spring planting, so you could plant out side without a check in their growth. To seed now and keep over winter would produce sick plants for spring planting. Al
I grew the blue bacopa from seeds this year. I got them from Ebay. They are tiny little seedlings, but almost all of what I sowed in the house under lights grew. I put some in a hanging basket and some in a pot with other plants. Both were in full sun from 7 am till about 8 pm. They are still in full bloom. I'm going to try bringing them in the house for the winter in the next few days as it supposed to frost.
Hello.
I don't know specifically about tomatoes and peppers but usually when seeds germinate but then seem to be failing shortly afterwards the way you are describing, they have either been over watered or aren't getting enough air circulation and they are succumbing to fungal disease. I can't tell from your pic because it's a bit blurry but what is the white substance on your soil?
Never grown them but try google "brugmansia from seed"
SCG
They take a long time to sprout. Just keep them moist and wait. Sow about 1/4 - 1/2" deep. A heat mat helps speed them up a bit.