6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
It's just one study, but you might want to read through this before committing to starting seeds in coir. I have no personal comparison to add, haven't used it for seeds -
Here is a link that might be useful: Coir vs Peat
Agree with the above - there are some issues associated with using straight coir. It works much better as a secondary component of the mix rather than the primary ingredients IMO. The quality of the coir used can also make a big difference.
In our GH we have done some informal comparisons between coir and peat based mixes and find a somewhat better level of germination with the peat mixes. Plus the peat based mixes (or a 2:1 peat to coir mix) have less fungus gnat issues and slightly better root development.
The finer the grind of coir the better the results it seems. We tied some bulk supplies of coarse ground coir and got very poor results from it.
Granted these are very unscientific results and there are lots of variables than can affect the results, but as you are going to have enough issues arise from using the worm castings that I'd encourage you to incorporate peat into your mix.
Dave
Is the 'breaker (color break) stage' of tomatoes the same as what some people call "first blush"?
Yes. There are several stages of color break but what is sometimes called first blush (blush of developing color at the blossom end) is the first stage. At that point the seeds are mature and the fruit will continue to ripen to full color either on or off the vine.
Dave
For seeds to mature, in certain fruits, they don't need for the fruit to be on the plant (after a given stage). Seed draw nutrients from the fruit itself. But it is different for seeds of flower, eg. Because in that case the seeds are in fact the fruits.
if you are making a "WILD" garden, with no order, no priorities then you would just broadcast the seeds late winter or early spring.
But if you have a vision to have a garden by design, then you either sow the seeds in flats/pots and the transplant them in the garden, according to size, color of flowers, flowering time ..etc. Or if you can afford buy the plants from nurseries.
In a newly started perennial garden you can add some annuals to complement until the perennials grow and fill the space. But eventually, you should not plant any annuals in a perennial garden. UNLESS you know exactly the vacant spots.
Beets will usually, in most climates, go to seed next year when it starts to get noticeably warm.
Your other questions are better discussed at Vegetable Gardening - GardenWeb. I think you will find there that you can overwinter beets with enough mulch and that some varieties may sometimes get a bit sweeter during the early winter.
yeah, mine overwinter....but they are pretty huge and gnarly, fit only for roasting and borscht......nothing like those little golfball summer beets. In truth, I mainly grow them for the leaves cos I am not keen on quite a lot of root crops (parsnip....gah!)...but essentially, they are biennial so will bolt to seed next year around May (for me).
It is normal to transplant when you have two or more true leaves, using height of the plant as a guide is not good practice as there is too much variance with plant varieties. I can not indorse what you have in mind regarding planting now for next years planting. You could have, a couple of months ago outside and had enough growth established to survive the winter, at least for those perennials hardy where you live. You would be better off starting your seeds inside for spring planting, so you could plant out side without a check in their growth. To seed now and keep over winter would produce sick plants for spring planting. Al
I grew the blue bacopa from seeds this year. I got them from Ebay. They are tiny little seedlings, but almost all of what I sowed in the house under lights grew. I put some in a hanging basket and some in a pot with other plants. Both were in full sun from 7 am till about 8 pm. They are still in full bloom. I'm going to try bringing them in the house for the winter in the next few days as it supposed to frost.
Hello.
I don't know specifically about tomatoes and peppers but usually when seeds germinate but then seem to be failing shortly afterwards the way you are describing, they have either been over watered or aren't getting enough air circulation and they are succumbing to fungal disease. I can't tell from your pic because it's a bit blurry but what is the white substance on your soil?
The simplest thing to do would be to sow now. But, I think you run more of a risk of the seed being eaten by migrating birds and rodents preparing for winter. I'd probably wait until February and plant then. There is also less chance of the seed rotting due to prolonged exposure to moisture before germination.
Martha
yeah, I would be inclined to do a more controlled sowing in spring....but save seeds and next autumn, you can strew, broadcast and fling to your heart's content.
You could, of course, sow some now in pots and transfer to garden in spring...but this assumes you have the room to do this while protecting the pots from munching creatures - a small temporary cold frame?
I have been collecting seed from celosia flaming feathers for the past week. I have not cut the blooms off. I just upend or turn the booms sideways and shake over a shoe box. Got plenty of ripe seed from plants that are still blooming and from those which have just begun turn pale brown at the edges.
I collected some seeds from the feather type today but the one in the picture is a little harder. The seeds are at the base.
I guess I will wait a bit then cut it. I don't think there is any other way. At least I will have some for next year so it's good.
Thanks valeriepa, I appreciate you taking time to post.
:) Aqua
New seedlings are fed from the seed storage of food until green leaves have grown and photosynthesis starts producing food. About this time some feeder roots have grown and can be fed a very weak chemical fertilizer. Not more than 1/4th of the recommended strength. If inside the light needs to be strong enough to photosynthesize or the plant will be very weak and the stem produced will usually not support the leaves grown. If you are depending on light from a window the container will have to be tuned daily. Hope this helps. Al
gardenbuddy all the way, they rank the seeds by planting zone so you can find what works in your area. Plus the selection is better than most, enjoy
Here is a link that might be useful: gardenbuddy.org
I've had great results from Bakers Creek heirlooms... except every white tomato seeds I've bought all comes out really yellow. I've tried several different types of their white tomatoes and all come out yellow. They're pictures are deceiving, but still taste great. I haven't tried to grow white watermelons etc yet. But as far as other tomato and different fruits and veggies all grew like the pictures they showed.
They also give a free packet of seeds with your order and shipping is cheap. So far I like them best.
Sure, you can start seeds anywhere you can provide a warm moist environment. After germination you will have to adjust the environment to suit the growing seedlings. Al