6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
The simplest thing to do would be to sow now. But, I think you run more of a risk of the seed being eaten by migrating birds and rodents preparing for winter. I'd probably wait until February and plant then. There is also less chance of the seed rotting due to prolonged exposure to moisture before germination.
Martha
yeah, I would be inclined to do a more controlled sowing in spring....but save seeds and next autumn, you can strew, broadcast and fling to your heart's content.
You could, of course, sow some now in pots and transfer to garden in spring...but this assumes you have the room to do this while protecting the pots from munching creatures - a small temporary cold frame?
I have been collecting seed from celosia flaming feathers for the past week. I have not cut the blooms off. I just upend or turn the booms sideways and shake over a shoe box. Got plenty of ripe seed from plants that are still blooming and from those which have just begun turn pale brown at the edges.
I collected some seeds from the feather type today but the one in the picture is a little harder. The seeds are at the base.
I guess I will wait a bit then cut it. I don't think there is any other way. At least I will have some for next year so it's good.
Thanks valeriepa, I appreciate you taking time to post.
:) Aqua
New seedlings are fed from the seed storage of food until green leaves have grown and photosynthesis starts producing food. About this time some feeder roots have grown and can be fed a very weak chemical fertilizer. Not more than 1/4th of the recommended strength. If inside the light needs to be strong enough to photosynthesize or the plant will be very weak and the stem produced will usually not support the leaves grown. If you are depending on light from a window the container will have to be tuned daily. Hope this helps. Al
gardenbuddy all the way, they rank the seeds by planting zone so you can find what works in your area. Plus the selection is better than most, enjoy
Here is a link that might be useful: gardenbuddy.org
I've had great results from Bakers Creek heirlooms... except every white tomato seeds I've bought all comes out really yellow. I've tried several different types of their white tomatoes and all come out yellow. They're pictures are deceiving, but still taste great. I haven't tried to grow white watermelons etc yet. But as far as other tomato and different fruits and veggies all grew like the pictures they showed.
They also give a free packet of seeds with your order and shipping is cheap. So far I like them best.
Wertach, my Heavenly Blue, Split Personality, Cardinal Climber, and other Ipomoea cultivars are not at all invasive here. In fact it's all I can do to prevent the critters from decimating them and seeing a flower. Only one time can I recall a seedling sowing itself from the previous year's seeds.
Perhaps there is wilder MG that is invasive? I've seen a wild species growing in the woods, but frankly it seems tame in comparison to Oriental bittersweet and Porcelain berry and other really horrible vigorous invasive vines that grow around here.
I don't know what species we have growing around here.
They are pink, blue, purple, and a lot different variegated types.
Since you are in 5b they may not have time to go to seed?
Since it originated in Asia, like kudzu, it might not be able to take the cold winters?
Our soil down here in 7b never freezes for more than a day or two and that is rare.
Thanks Martha. It was very pleasing to see a reply on 'growing from seed' forum. It seems there are not much returning members on this forum.
Anyways, I will try the method suggested by you for some of my seedlings. Just to have a sort of comparison between a few alternatives that I am trying.
Thanks again.
I loved poke greens as a kid in Oklahoma, but now find it as one of my most hated weeds. Still have an occasional meal of it but mostly tear it and my hair out as it self-seeds everywhere. I would think just throwing them out on fresh soil lightly covered and wait till Spring to transplant to desired (Desired? LOL) location.
Thanks, Morz8 - fortunately, it is the work of minutes to poke a hot nail through the bottoms of the containers and whip the lid coverings off. I dunno what was going through my mind - certainly not sense - but, as I often leave plants outside in pots, I usually cover them with a piece of glass until germination (obviously, in a shady north facing spot) and just wondered if the principle could be expanded. I did have a couple of fairly long term bottle gardens (small ferns, hypoestes, etc.) and thought the principle was fairly sound - I was actually more concerned because I had pricked holes in the top thereby failing to maintain a completely sealed environment. However, I am back to my original anxiety - because I have used milkjugs, it is really hard to see exactly how dry or wet the potting mix is (I also have used this mix forever) and feel that a hole just at the top of the jug is not really enough to allow moisture in although I guess I could simply stand the jugs in shallow trays until water uptake occurs. When I have used seed trays, a good soaking is usually all it takes as I keep a clear cover on those too, moving it on or off according to time of year, light levels, water needs etc. and, as you say, the timing is not that crucial as seeds would be exposed to germination potential in their wild state as soon as they drop from the plant - which is never next spring.
One thought, I could simply remove the top part of the jugs, so that I actually have the equivalent of small rectangular pots and shove them all somewhere in the greenhouse.
It is becoming clear that (some)short cuts are simply not worth taking sometimes (especially when the balance of mind is disturbed).
While I can't help you on sowing I do have an idea on moisture levels. Could you not fill one with the normal amount of soil then thoroughly moisten. Now by picking the jug up you could feel how heavy it was and use as a comparison.
SCG
Everything listed are easy to start from seed, especially using the wintersow method as Martha suggested. I have some of the seeds you have listed and would be willing to send some to you to enable you:-) I have the following if interested:
Agastache foeniculum
Helenium autumnale
Campanula americana
Eupatorium purpureum
Echinacea purpurea
Echinacea tennesseensis
Lobelia cardinalis
I will have when the finish flowering:
Lobelia siphilicata
Eupatorium rugosum
Ratibida pinnata
I will also have if interested:
Penstemon digitalis
Rudbeckia triloba
Eryngium yuccifolium
Liatris (unsure of which one)
Chasmanthium latifolia
Thermopsis carolinia
and a couple other natives I can't think of right now:-) If interested shoot me an email through GW.
Rhonda
Thanks all, I am looking to fill in basically the areas that are on the slopes, that currently grass is growing into as a place holder until I can get the beds set up. See bottom picture, anything shaded is what will have Perennials.
I am starting to collect Milk Jugs now. What is the best time to start, before the first frost or after? I know I'm going to have some deer and rabbit pressure, but I have neighbors with perennials, and I'm hoping "natives" will be a little bit more resistant.
You can see the progress since last November, I've pulled out most of the old shrubs and planted a new lawn, put in sprinklers, and next spring we'll put in perennial beds and a few raised beds as well.
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Thank you SO much morz8! Typically, in the past, I have simply put my Galtonia candicans seeds in a sealed envelope and over wintered in a dry, cool place. Very early spring I sprinkle the seeds in my garden and within 3-4 weeks they begin to produce what looks like âÂÂgrassâ shoots⦠the shoots grow between 4 ��" 6 inches by the end of the summer. Late fall I then dig up the soil and have dozens and dozens of âÂÂminiâ Galtonia bulbs. The next year I plant those âÂÂminiâ bulbs and they mature and the foliage does very well however, they do not flower. The third year, I re-plant the then medium sized bulbs and they flower nicely and the bulbs double in size. My goal is to spend this fall/winter speeding up the first year process by growing the seeds inside so that by late winter I have âÂÂminiâ bulbs. I am trying to shave a year off the three year flowering process by tricking the seeds into becoming ready to grow ASAP through this fall/winter. Are you certain that, after spending a few weeks in the cold fridge, that the seeds wonâÂÂt be âÂÂtrickedâ into thinking itâÂÂs early spring once planted?
Dry in the fridge is only storage. It does nothing to improve germination. If the seeds need a cold period to break dormancy, it must be moist to be helpful. You can sow immediately after harvesting or now, and chances are you will have germination, fresh galtonia seeds are not particularly dependent on a long cold moist period. If you have g. viridiflora, you may increase the percentage of germination if you provide brief moist chill of 2-4 weeks.
Your sign in shows Washington - Washington State? West side? If so, you don't have to lift these every year, they are perfectly hardy in the ground in Western Washington. My own is g. viridiflora, grown from seed, and the clump has been in place, not even divided, for at least a decade.
3 months after seeding!
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Hi mzmalik and welcome to GardenWeb!
Well, when it comes to when and how to fertilize seedlings, you'll probably find considerably disagreement among gardeners. Personally, I do add nutrients to my soil-less mix once the seedlings start developing their true leaves. Of course, I use a very diluted liquid fertilizer. When the seedling get large enough that I feel they should be moved to larger pots, I start using Miracle-Gro potting mix and stop adding my own fertilizer. I have always had good results using this method.
UMassAmherst has a good webpage that discusses the fertilizing of seedling and plugs. You might find it helpful (see link below).
Hope this is helpful,
Art
PS - You can find the links to all forums using the "Forums" link at the top of this page.
Here is a link that might be useful: Fertilizing Seedlings
SOAK SEED IN WATER FOR 12 HOURS THEN STORE AT 40f FOR 60 DAYS.... Then lightly cover the seed soil temp for germination 65-70F & takes
As you said this is parasitic plant & needs a host
Thank-you for your help. I will sow the seeds (after cold strat.) w/grama seeds. I have cleared a patch outside in my "meadow" and will cover the seeds w/burlap 'til next spring.