6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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jai854

The only other method you could try is to treat your seeds with gibberellin. We were going to try this experiment in class but never got around to actually doing it. However, I don't know how feasible it is for you to find gibberellins.

A much more feasible solution for your problem is grafting. This will only work if you know somebody who can give you a fresh cutting. You can germinate regular cherry seeds and graft a scion of Prunus serrulata onto it. This has to be done when the plant is about to break its winter dormancy. I'm assuming that these two species are related enough for the graft to take. For this reason, it is not advisable to use other members of the genus Prunus, such as peaches or apricots, as rootstock because of genetic dissimilarity.

This post was edited by jai854 on Sat, Aug 24, 13 at 22:06

    Bookmark     August 24, 2013 at 9:54PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Snaillover, there are different kinds of milkweed (Asclepias) and they don't all have the same germination requirements. A good place to look up the different types for reliable suggestions on how best to germinate is the Clothiers Germination database, I'll link it for you. The seed sowing articles found there are good too, you may want to read through them.

If stratifying a type seed is recommended, storing dry in your garage won't help, that's only storage. In order for the chill to be helpful the seeds must be moist. Can you sometimes skip that step and get (some) germination, Yes, in a very few cases...but the databases will give you suggestions for methods shown to provide the best and most complete germination.

It's hard to advise not knowing which poppy too. The oriental perennial types will germinate without the moist chill, are fine sown in pots, while other perennial types may need the chill - and the annual poppies are often best direct sown. In my milder climate I'll direct sow in Fall, Winter, earliest Spring. You can sometimes very carefully transplant the annual types into the garden but for the most part they don't do as well with the roots disturbed.

Here is a link that might be useful: Clothier Germination Database

    Bookmark     August 20, 2013 at 11:34PM
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SnailLover(5a MI)

Thanks so much, I'll check the link out.

    Bookmark     August 21, 2013 at 9:27PM
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jacqueinthegorge(USDA 8 / Sunset 5)

Regarding the frugality issue, it can be cheaper in time, effort, and frustration to buy a tuber or other vegetative offset of a really great named variety, grow it well, and divide the plant. Just depends on what you want to do - if you want more of the exact same plant, start with a tuber - if you want to exercise your green thumb and/or surprise yourself, start with seed.

For some plants, you'll never see seeds available commercially - chocolate cosmos comes to mind. In fact, although my chocolate cosmos flowers prolifically, I've never seen it set seed.

A big advantage to starting from seed is that you avoid the possibility of propagating disease along with tubers. A big disadvantage is that seed can take longer to reach flowering size. By definition, a tuberous plant is perennial in its own climate, and it may not flower from seed until it is several years old.

Never tried canna, but dahlias are straightforward from seed, they usually reach flowering size the first year, and it sure can be fun to see what you get.

    Bookmark     August 21, 2013 at 1:53PM
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jacqueinthegorge(USDA 8 / Sunset 5)

Regarding the frugality issue, it can be cheaper in time, effort, and frustration to buy a tuber or other vegetative offset of a really great named variety, grow it well, and divide the plant. Just depends on what you want to do - if you want more of the exact same plant, start with a tuber - if you want to exercise your green thumb and/or surprise yourself, start with seed.

For some plants, you'll never see seeds available commercially - chocolate cosmos comes to mind. In fact, although my chocolate cosmos flowers prolifically, I've never seen it set seed.

A big advantage to starting from seed is that you avoid the possibility of propagating disease along with tubers. A big disadvantage is that seed can take longer to reach flowering size. By definition, a tuberous plant is perennial in its own climate, and it may not flower from seed until it is several years old.

Never tried canna, but dahlias are straightforward from seed, they usually reach flowering size the first year, and it sure can be fun to see what you get.

    Bookmark     August 21, 2013 at 1:56PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Excessive heat is about the least of my gardening issues here in this cool summer Z8, but you may find this chart helpful, indicates approximate guidelines for your Fall crops. It appears you are early for the Fall lettuce, and for several other things too

Here is a link that might be useful: Texas A&M Extension

    Bookmark     August 18, 2013 at 7:08PM
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florauk(8/9)

A double, purple Datura.

    Bookmark     August 16, 2013 at 12:11PM
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art33(6)

Hi suzanne and welcome to GardenWeb! That's a nice looking plant and the double purple flower is truly beautiful. I agree with florauk, it appears to be a Datura. Although a beauty, you really need to do a little research on the web regarding the toxicity of the plant; especially if you have small children or pets around. All parts of the plant are toxic if ingested.

I've grown Datura from seed every year, for the past four or five years (my kids are all grown and I have no pets). I've grown the white, purple, and yellow and love them all. The yellow datura flowers are often triples!

Art

    Bookmark     August 18, 2013 at 1:35AM
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susanzone5(z5NY)

Zones do matter with melons since they need a long, warm growing season, about 100 days. In your zone 4 it is hard to grow melons.

But good luck finding the seeds and trying. Hope it works out.

    Bookmark     August 10, 2013 at 8:49AM
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susanzone5(z5NY)

Sometimes they grow a rosette of leaves in fall, overwinter, and bloom in spring. Sometimes they wait and sprout (germinate) in spring. Depends on the plant.

    Bookmark     August 8, 2013 at 3:41PM
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yiorges-z5il

SOAK SEED IN WATER FOR 3 HOURS THEN LIGHTLY COVER WITH SOIL. SOIL TEMP FOR GERMINATION 65-75f tAKING 30-120 DAYS TO GERMINATE.

    Bookmark     August 7, 2013 at 4:29PM
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bgp_123

Thanks, I shall do it in the morning.

    Bookmark     August 7, 2013 at 8:24PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Yes, and I've sown them from my spice jar - I have a nephew who loves lemon-poppy seed pound cake :)

But while they grow and bloom, the colors weren't terribly inspiring from that jar, mostly washed out pastels, many white singles, a few of pink or pinkish lavender. If you have an area in your garden where the subtle mixed colors will work for you, you can certainly sow them though.

    Bookmark     August 6, 2013 at 10:54AM
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evelyn_inthegarden(8NCAfoothills)

I have used berry containers in the same way, except just line them with newspaper and put the seeds in potting soil in there. It is a good start before transplanting into individual pots. I have a lot of pots I have saved over the years from nurseries and garden centers.

    Bookmark     July 27, 2013 at 6:14PM
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AT2013

Like Evelyn I do the same with berry containers, but also use them as cheap cutting propagators since they control temperature and humidity rather well.

    Bookmark     August 2, 2013 at 8:39PM
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slimak

... and the second one

    Bookmark     July 28, 2013 at 2:17PM
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AT2013

Hi there.

In any case when a seedling does this it can mean a whole range of things:

Little water or too much water
Little light or too much light
Too little or too much nutrients
Too little or too much moisture

    Bookmark     August 2, 2013 at 7:57PM
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SnakeJake(SoCal at 4230' Zone8)

I am interested in knowing how your Sugar Apples turned out. I just received the same from TradeWinds. Thanks, Richard

    Bookmark     February 14, 2013 at 3:46AM
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peat23(6a)

They took too long to germinate, so I transferred them to peat pellets. Unfortunately, they rotted so I ordered from ebay. Fortunately, they germinated, so that worked.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2013 at 8:04PM
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SouthCountryGuy Zone 4b-5 SE BC(Zone 4b-5 SE BC Canada)

Nurseries control the environment. As veeta mentioned, have you tried starting them indoors where the temperature is cooler? They don't need light to germinate and once they sprout you can move them out, be sure to harden them off.

SCG

    Bookmark     July 31, 2013 at 2:45PM
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cugal(5b-6a NE Ks)

Thanks folks! Yeah, starting them indoors (ie, in the A/C) has crossed my mind.... I'm currently having limited success with germination outside, but it's largely because we're experiencing some rain cooled temps........

    Bookmark     July 31, 2013 at 5:15PM
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susanzone5(z5NY)

It would probably grow mold. Let some air in.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2013 at 1:59PM
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neonrider(USDA 8A ^ Sunset 31 ^ Mid-SC)

Thanks for advise. I placed the palm seeds in warm water in a sun room and there are those gnats and flies, so I was worried that they may mess it up, but anyway I'm changing water every day.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2013 at 4:20PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

You should be able to do it, but what is killing the grass there now, and why would it not also kill the new grass? Before sowing new grass I would find out what is happening. Al

    Bookmark     July 31, 2013 at 10:16AM
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