6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
The only way to find out is to test plant them by putting seeds between wet paper towels. Brown towels are probably best these days because white ones have a white dye in them. I know they streak windows, so who knows what they would do to seeds.
Sorry for the misfortune. Maybe plant a tree by your mailbox now, for shade.
Last year, I tried starting almost all my vegetables indoors. I quickly learned that, in my climate at least, most will do just fine being direct seeded in the garden. Now, my indoor sowing is restricted to tomatoes, herbs, peppers, broccoli, cabbage and greens. Peas, beans, squash and carrots are all going directly in the ground.
I'm also planting later! As a noob, I made the classic mistake every novice makes: Planting too early and thinking that will give me a "head start" on my veggies. All it does is make them struggle to stay alive until their optimum weather hits.
For what it's worth, I have daffodils planted with my coneflowers. The coneflowers don't grow where the daffodils are. They self-seed/thrive outside of each clump of daffs.
Termites, slime molds and pileated woodpeckers take care of my tree stumps over a period of many years till they disappear and leave a big hole in the ground. So plant away. It will be a while till the stumps are gone, but it's fun to watch nature take care of it.
Good luck with the rock mulch :O On the upside, it'll keep the tunneling rodents away if you work it into the soil a bit.
The best way to plant garlic is to take a whole bulb, break up the cloves, plant cloves in fall and harvest new bulbs the next summer. Removing the flower scape (stem) in spring will help the bulb put more energy into getting bigger instead of making seed.
Starting with seed, it will take a few years to harvest. Here's a quote from the link below:
"Year 1: Remove bulbils from the umbels of selected garlic plants. Harvest the seeds in the fall.
Year 2: In January or early February begin the bleach and four week cold treatment of the seeds. In February or early March plant the seeds indoors in seed trays. As soon as feasible, migrate the seedlings to natural light and the garden bed. Depending on growing conditions, intermediate steps may include transplanting to small pots and relocating to greenhouse or cold frame.
As the plants begin to senesce in late summer or early fall, harvest the rounds for replanting. Plant the rounds in the fall when you normally plant your garlic crop. If the plants have not yet formed a round by early fall, leave in the ground or, if necessary to protect from severe cold, move to a cool greenhouse or cold frame.
Year 3: Most rounds will yield fully-developed plants and divided bulbs. Harvest as you would the rest of your garlic crop, or use the plants for a second generation of seed production, or do a combination of both. In the fall, plant the cloves of particularly vigorous or promising cultivars to preserve the cultivars and increase planting stock."
You can find all this info with a search. It's SO much easier to plant cloves...less than a year to harvest. But I understand the fun factor in doing seeds.
Here is a link that might be useful: growing garlic from seed
You could gather some seeds and start a few inside and then set the plants out in fall.
Since you have not seen any self-sown seedlings then why waste the seeds? It seems as though the chances are slim if you sow them outside now.
I would start them inside in a plastic bag in a moist paper towel. That is how I start my tomatoes and sweet peppers. I start them on top of my tropical fish aquarium. If I did not have that, I would test the temperature on top of my DVR, amplifier, computer, or other electrical or electronic appliance.
Start checking them for germination every day from the earliest anticipated sprouting time on the seed package. Transfer them to a lighted tray of planting mix when they germinate. You might be able to transplant directly from the starter tray, or may have to transfer to an intermediate pot. You will have to decide.
I know that is not practical for many vegetables like root or bulb or leaf crops, but is practical for the crops you mentioned.
How old are the seeds and how have they been stored? If they were in a hot and humid environment, they may not be good anymore.
Are you planting them at the right depth for the seed?
Can mice get to the seeds in the carport?
Are the pots of seeds kept continually moist till plants appear?
florauk,
Thanks those where my concerns also. Now to find this plant to take cuttings.
I have been looking online to find seedlings but mostly found just seeds which is why I ask the question in the first place. Seems like a very versatile plant to play with.
Try posting on the Plant Exchange. I used to grow them when I lived farther south. I put a foot long cutting in regular soil. They grow like crazy. Be careful where you plant them if you are putting them in the ground. They have huge above ground roots.
Please let me know if I understand this correctly.
PEAT MOSS- holds water and nutrients for plants, improves texture
VERMICULITE- hold water, nutrients and air, minimizes soil temperature fluctuations
PEARLITE-prevents soil compactation, improves drainage and aeration
COMPOST-provides nutrients as fertilizers do, contains micro organisms that help breakdown nutrients for plant consumption. It reduces need for fertilizer and acts as slow release type fertilizer
In order to create loamy nutritious potting soil, besides these do you need to add clay or sand??
thank you susanzone5. I did some research yesterday and saw how you can also use milk containers to start seeds. Im always looking to be thrifty... we are a family of 6 and im a stay at home mom. So.....now im looking around at all the plastic containers I could use. Like strawberry containers.
So you think the basement with lights is the best way to get good results. I'll definitely be looking into that. I would like to have a little indoor area for raising plants!!
Thanks!
Lisam625,
I agree, peat pots are terrible.
If it was me I would sow them where you want them right now. Two reasons for this. First you are in a pretty mild climate. I bet most would survive if mulched. Second, most perennials don't flower the first year. So those that make it through the winter will most likely flower for you next year. You probably have more seed than you need anyways so it won't really cost much to try. Foxglove usually has enough in the package to do a solid acre lol.
I then would set up the grow lights for growing more for next year!!
Had you noticed penstemon with their erratic germination have their own section on the Clothiers site apart from the other perennials? Might be something you'd like to read through...
Here is a link that might be useful: Clothiers, penstemon