6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed



Please let me know if I understand this correctly.
PEAT MOSS- holds water and nutrients for plants, improves texture
VERMICULITE- hold water, nutrients and air, minimizes soil temperature fluctuations
PEARLITE-prevents soil compactation, improves drainage and aeration
COMPOST-provides nutrients as fertilizers do, contains micro organisms that help breakdown nutrients for plant consumption. It reduces need for fertilizer and acts as slow release type fertilizer
In order to create loamy nutritious potting soil, besides these do you need to add clay or sand??


thank you susanzone5. I did some research yesterday and saw how you can also use milk containers to start seeds. Im always looking to be thrifty... we are a family of 6 and im a stay at home mom. So.....now im looking around at all the plastic containers I could use. Like strawberry containers.
So you think the basement with lights is the best way to get good results. I'll definitely be looking into that. I would like to have a little indoor area for raising plants!!
Thanks!

Lisam625,
I agree, peat pots are terrible.
If it was me I would sow them where you want them right now. Two reasons for this. First you are in a pretty mild climate. I bet most would survive if mulched. Second, most perennials don't flower the first year. So those that make it through the winter will most likely flower for you next year. You probably have more seed than you need anyways so it won't really cost much to try. Foxglove usually has enough in the package to do a solid acre lol.
I then would set up the grow lights for growing more for next year!!

I didn't want to gross anyone out Susan, sorry.
But the water is actually safe, and everyone downstream that has public water is drinking it after a little more treatment.
I have actually saw a salesman drink effluent water! I wouldn't do it myself though!
The plant filters out the gross stuff just as good as the public water suppliers do!
Ted

First, this is considered an invasive species in several states, mine included. I don't know how many more may have been added in recent years but "Iris pseudacorus is reported as invasive in Connecticut, Delaware, Maryland, New Hampshire, North Carolina, Oregon, Tennessee, Virginia, Vermont, Washington, Wisconsin, and West Virginia (Forest Health Staff 2006)."
You would want to look at your own states invasive species lists and see if there are restrictions - and truthfully, there are many more pretty yellow iris that are not invasive that you could enjoy growing.
As for the seed pod, it would be ripe when it begins to brown and split open at its 'seam'. This iris, like many, does best with a warm moist, cold moist, cool moist (and in that order) sequence. Part of the problem with them is they self sow as one means of increasing, seeds dropping in late summer to Fall to germinate the following spring. That means sow in Fall, or sow at 68F for 4 weeks, move to 39F for 6 weeks, then move to approx. 55F for germination They should flower in their third year.


Could you post a picture? It's not clear what plants you mean by white and blue sage.
But even without a picture I imagine your plants have either damped off or are etiolated. If they are 2 - 3 inches high they should have at least one set of true leaves. Do they? And they should not be sprayed overhead and certainly not twice a day. It is the growing medium which needs moisture not the plant foliage. Are you watering them other than the misting? From what you say I think they lack light and have too much moisture on the foliage. But a photo would really help.

I fail to see any reason why you cannot grow them in the gritty mix. I would water more often, not look for more retentive mix, which would negate the reason for using the gritty mix. Use a weak fertilizer such as half a teaspoon per gallon of Foliage Pro every time you water. In gritty mix it is easy to underwater, but almost impossible to over water. Al

Thanks all for the comments. Here is a quick update.
I am planning to grow these as bonsai. I started from seeds and now have one each Wisteria Sinensis and W. Sinensis Alba growing. I know it will be years before they bloom, but think how exciting that day will be!
So - I have added a saucer under both to create some perched water. I read this suggestion at a bonsai forum and thought I would try it. It seems to be working, both seedlings are now growing well again. From what I have read they do not like to have dry feet, so this approach seemed to work best for me. I want to keep most of my bonsai in the basic 1-1-1 gritty mix as it works very well for my others. The only exceptions are my 3 giant sequoia trees. I planted them in the 1-1-1 mix with 15% peat moss by volume and no lime - they are growing exceptionally well.
As for the foliage pro, I shoot for 50 ppm nitrogen - 1/2 teaspoon per gallon is about 59 ppm and seems to be working well.


Any one has Champaca seeds to share please?
Thanks,
Sridevi
First one is he raw seed of Michelia Champaka, and second one is the ripe one which is matured to the level of sowing.