6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I should mention that everything I have planted in the egg cartons are only about an inch high so far. I am transplanting them to a bigger container this weekend. But most of my other veggies have already been transplanted to large containers already.
Al, I only have 5 seedling plants, and there is another coming up and maybe they all will, but no guarantees there. I wouldn't hesitate to lose one if all 25 took, but we need 21, so every baby counts and now we have 6 counting the twins.
Today DH got out his knife, and separated the twins. Actually, I was surprised that they kept their roots straight down and were not co-mingled.
He then cut another root cube in half, jammed it up against each seedling, and back in the rooting chamber they went.
They will survive just fine.
Not so sure about the new twins. They are about 1/32" from each other. If one is big, it will get culled because it's growing next to a true dwarf root stock. And the dwarf stock is the whole reason for seedlings.
I've been researching Parsley recently and everything I've read says that it takes a really long time to germinate -- like a month or more. I normally grow from seed, too, but I decided to buy plants this time instead. Maybe next spring I'll buy a packet of seeds instead, but for this summer, I went for quick. :)
I often put 4 seedlings into a tray cell that size, one in each corner. As soon as they grow two pairs of true leaves (much smaller than those in the photo), I use an ice tea spoon to scoop out each corner's tomato plant and transplant into a 9 oz. plastic cup. I just use the spoon to cut through the roots.
I never lose one, and the plants I grow are just as healthy as they would be if each was started in a separate cell.
Taken for this website;
How to Start a Wild Iris From Seeds
By Meg Butler
Wild iris grown from seed must grow for at least two years before it will flower.
Starting wild iris from seed is a simple task, but it requires patience. Wild iris seed is sown in September and must spend the winter underground before it germinates in spring. Once wild iris germinates, it must grow for two to four seasons before the plant is mature enough to flower. When the wild iris does flower, however, it will produce three to four flowers per stalk for most of the month of June.
Read more: How to Start a Wild Iris From Seeds : eHow http://www.ehow.com/how_7339031_start-wild-iris-seeds.html#ixzz2TYgip6GF
Water your iris seeds and surrounding soil frequently enough to keep the seeds and soil constantly moist, but not soaking wet, from the time of planting through sprouting in the spring. Local rainfall and weather, planting location and soil texture will impact how frequently you need to water. Warmer climates with little rainfall and fast-draining soil will require more frequent, even daily watering. Cooler, rainy or humid climates with humus-rich or clay soils will require less frequent watering.
Moisten the seeds and soil slowly with a very gentle mist so as not to displace the seeds or disturb nascent roots. A hose attachment set on a mist or light rain setting will help to keep the seeds and soil in place.
Set automatic commercial mist irrigation systems to provide your iris seeds with a regimen of 10 seconds of active misting during each 15 minutes of sunlight or artificial daylight hours.
Water iris is a pretty general term, but most iris seed will respond best to a warm moist period, followed by a moist chill, will then germinate when brought to warmer but still cool. If your climate doesn't provide those conditions, you may have to sow indoors, use your refrigerator (not freezer) for the chill, and cross your fingers on having a coolish room for the last stage of germination. How the plants themselves will fare in your temps long term, I can't offer a guess :)
Iris in general and holds true for almost all types: Impervious seed coats. Shake in dry sharp sand or nick carefully with a file. You may want to soak overnight after nicking. All periods must be moist, with seeds in damp not soggy medium. In order - 70F for 4 weeks, move to 40F for 6 weeks, bring back to approximately 50-55F for germination which may be staggered over many weeks time.
Well, May is not midsummer, so a quick answer to your question would be yes. As Mauch says it depends a bit on the species but as late spring -summer in USA tends to be very warm and if the frosts stay off till late you could get a terrific display. Good luck - Ian.
Yes, you can sow seeds for annuals in midsummer if you keep them constantly watered which might be 3 times a day. They might not give as good a show as if they were sown in spring, but you can definitely try. Some seeds you think are annuals will actually winter over when seeded midsummer and bloom the following spring. It's all an experiment and you learn a lot as you go, even when experienced. Good luck!
Thanks so much calistoga, your input is valuable. I can see your point and why you are saying what you are. I appreciate very much the thought you put into your answer. Perhaps that would be best.
However...I'd like to try with the burlap. I may be being foolish but do value the burlap (2 used coffee bags which is essentially 4 layers of burlap as recommended by the Interbay mulch system) not only for weed minimization but as the mulch to allow gentle watering of beds (even hard rains drip through slowly controlling washing) and keeps moisture levels even.
So....I'd still like to try to germinate the seeds and use the burlap as mulch and not pull the burlap away. I may just be like the kid that has to learn the hard way but that acknowledged...it I still need advice on the seeds...my plan for the transplant is cut thru and plant..
BUT for the SEEDS....Would it be best to 1. plant the seeds under the burlap and cut a hole or slot or cross to allow the newly germinated seeds to continue with the burlap as their mulch
2. cut a cross or slot in the burlap, plant, and allow that to be the hole the seeds push through that
3. Cut a little hole where the plant goes and plant there like that
The advantage of the first it seems to me would be protecting from washing away of the seed and I know some light gets through the burlap...I've also had one person suggest cutting a cross and pinning the flaps however which seems also to have advantages but a lot of work.
Which method or variation do the experts here recommend....given I'd like to try this to retain what I consider to be the benefits of the burlap as mulch over straw and other options.
HELP! It's almost time to plant.
THANKS....
I don't know about peat pots, since I can't remember the last time I used them, but that soil doesn't look soggy. If that's a soilless mix you're using, then yes, you need to start providing some nutrients. 45ú is ok for some seedings, like lettuce, but not heat lovers, which get stressed at those temperatures.
I no longer live in a climate where I have to keep seedlings indoors for extended periods of time, although I don't live in a particularly warm climate either. I just got sick of the whole high-humidity-sterile-soil-heat-mat routine, and now I just sow directly into potting soil in plastic cups, providing no plastic covering or increased humidity or heat, just keeping the soil moist, and occasionally spraying with a bat guano/earthworm casting solution or sprinkling a little dry organic fertilizer on the soil if the seedlings are large enough to water normally. I do this with vegetables, herbs, flowers, shrub seeds, everything. So far I have better results, but that's me, here, in this climate, in these conditions.
I don't fertilize much before transplanting, but I do find that some added nutrients to a soil that already contains some composted material is of benefit, and doesn't weaken the plants, as long as there is good light. A seed really just contains enough nutrients to get two leaves in the air, and a root in the ground, so beyond that you're going to have to provide something more, either with potting or actual soil, or a drink of fertilizer.
I had a similiar problem and it had nothing to do with peat pots. Many of the soilless mixes don't have any nutrients, so you need to add some to boost the seedlings along (and some of them that have fertilizers in them I've heard negative things about). Anyway, my seedlings were in plastic where each section was 9 plants. They germinated, and then stopped.
When you fertilize use a very dilute solution. Mine is more dilute that the weakest dilution the fertilizer I'm using lists as a mixture (a 'Miracle-gro 'like' fertilizer).
as soon as that seed even cracks(you dont need to see root)
it should be planted in soil, as a rule of thumb, twice the seeds thickness deep.
if you leave it in the towel, the root will grow longer than it should be, and be prone to snapping.
It will most certainly produce leaves without light. Cotyledons exist to some level before the seed even cracks. Without light to the cotys the roots will cease to grow, and the plant will die.
I planted my seeds in a clear hard plastic food container and placed them in the window sill. After they got a good start and had a couple of leaves I planted them in individual pots and lifted the plant so that 3/8 inch of the root was above the soil line. The ones I planted below the soil line die from trunk rot. Take the standard procedure for growing citrus.
Have your trees turn out well. Could you post pictures. See my picture below.
Meiwa kumquat tree grown from seed.
Here is a link that might be useful: https://plus.google.com/photos/111099372377958308731/albums/profile?banner=pwa