6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

I never soak any seeds. I've heard of people soaking legumes but not squash. If you are a beginner my advice would be to ignore the soaking until you've got the hang of all the rest of the things you need to learn like watering, light etc. It always seems just one more thing to faff with and I don't think it gains anything more than a day or two.

I soak my peas and beans over night and then stick them in damp (not super wet) soil - I usually get excellent germination rates.

I rarely soak anything else - though I am trying it with cilantro and parsley this year.

Never heard of anyone doing a twice a day rinse - except for making "sprouts"

This doesn't look like damping off to me. I'd suspect the gnats (which it's their grubs in the soil that are the real problem. However the seedling pictured looks quite good. For tomatos just plant them with their stem buried and they'll root on the stem itself. You didn't specify if the damage is on other seedlings or the severity so I can't give a reasonable response. The drooping seedling probably (unfortunately) is a goner.

mauch1~
thanks for your response. There is widespread damage on most of the tomato plants, but oddly enough, not on the flowers, peppers, etc.

But the seeds were bought from many different seed suppliers, otherwise I would suspect a seed quality issue.

I only ever saw one gnat. Is this damage typical if what gnat grubs do?

The only other thing I can even think of is that maybe the damage was done by my sprayer, as I was reaching to spray the different plants close to soil level? When you said this did not look like dampening off, I tried to consider what else it could be.

Thanks again!

Here is a link to the Seed Saving forum.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Seed Saving forum

I saw right away they were purple cherokees. This is my third season growing them from seed I've saved. Nice tomatoes. A good way to save tomato seeds is exactly how you are doing it. Well done! Well organized!

No, leaving the lights on all night did no harm at all. However, if you don't have the lights on a timer you might want to consider doing that; the timer won't forget :-)

Art

Thank you! I will definitely pick up a timer next year.

yes 2 seed is normal ...color?...if viable only way to tell is to try to germinate!
store the seed at 70 F for 3 months THEN at 40Ffor 3 months
Lightly cover the seed soil temp for germination 65-75F

A closed cold frame can easily reach over 120 degrees if sunny especially while the sun is high. One of my cold frames I need to have ventilated if it's sunny and 28 degrees, another is about 35 degrees and the other two frames are ok until about 40 degrees.

Depending on the outside temperature I'll prop the lids either an inch (with a block of wood)or 3 inches (with a brick). Generally by 9 am I open them fully if it's around 40 degrees.

80-85 would be ok for tomato seedlings.

Soil cables are something that's used more during the winter months. I don't use them though they might have some use during spring. The soil stays fairly warm as it is. I have Christmas lights that I use for heat if needed but I've only used them about a dozen times since November.

I've experimented with a few warm weather seedlings this spring ( 2 tomatoes and 2 peppers). The peppers have all but failed and the tomatoes are hanging around ok. I figured it was early for warm weather seedlings in an cold frame but thought I would try. We have had a snowy and cold April. As temps start climbing into the 40s overnight it'll stay closer to 55-60 in the frames at night so it should then be ok for the warm weather stuff.

I have a couple questions regarding the temperatures of 'baby' (younger seedlings, about 2-3 weeks old).

I know that stuff like broccoli, cauliflower, etc. prefer cooler temps upon germination (60-70 F degree range)

However I'm wondering if the temp should be kept warmer when they're younger until the plant becomes more established or if I can lower the temp to 60-70 range for young seedlings.

Would the 60-70 temp range for younger seedlings (even cold weather stuff with the exception of endive, sorrel, arugula, escarole, and lettuce) be too cold?

I also have the opposite question regarding the warmer end of the scale for younger seedlings; would it be too hot for cool weather crops.

How long should the 80-85 degree temp range be kept for pepper tomato and eggplant seedlings? (how old, how many true leaves should they have etc.)

Or is the 80-85 temp range the ideal growing temp range for them or is that too hot?

Also what is the growing temp range for squash seedlngs I know they prefer warmer temps, but what is the temp range for them? Is 70-80 degrees good; or is 80+ too hot for them?

Harden them off, then transplant to final outdoor containers. Those seedlings look like they are way too close together, but it's hard to see them in their containers in this picture. At this point it will be hard to separate them if they are close together in the pot, because the roots are tangled up together. You must separate them or they will not grow right.

Separating roots is easier when the soil is dry. Dump the pot and slowly tease the roots apart with your fingers. Don't worry if roots break a little.

So go from there and good luck with your first seed starting venture!

If it is that old then yes, it is well past time for it to have been planted in soil. See the how-to FAQ linked below.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Avocado FAQ

Dave thank you very much for your responce!
But it's been already in the soil for months now. By "covered with more soil" I mean if I need to cover the seed more than 50% or something...