6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Hi there. I'm not an expert as I've only been starting tomatoes from seed for 3 years.
My best guess is your plants are too crowded and rootbound. Try giving them their own space in larger containers, water less, and see if it helps. You could possibly be adding too much fertilizer also.
Best of luck and report back with your results :)
Gosh Lesuko, I feel for you, as I had this exact same problem this spring already. I'm not sure if we have the same reasons, but we sure have/had the same results...unfortunately I lost every plant that showed the signs you have. You may have to start over from scratch like I did. For me - problem number 1 was too much heat. I learned on these forums that after the seedling sprouts, they like to grow in a much cooler environment. Also, add air. A little desk fan running 24/7 in the corner made a big difference for me too. The soil was also a problem for me but I can only guess as to the cause based on what happened AFTER I quit using it. I thought I had primo stuff...(I made it myself afterall!)...but as I was taught here, it was just not porous enough, held water, and sort of compacted inside the cell-pots. Also, it had no nutrients in it, which some say is okay for the first few weeks of plant life, but in my mix the combo spelled death. (But it's soooo black, and it has the perfect ingredients, and it looks so ideal, I lamented.) Well, maybe so, but the proof was in the pudding, and I had a high mortality rate. Same as you, I also had a fungus growing on the soil. So, I switched to a pre-mix formulation that my local feed store carries. 2nd batch faired much better. Now the water....I too, felt that DOD didn't seem right since I have hardly any humidity, and I'm still not convinced that it was a factor or that I was overwatering. Until, I dumped the dirt out in my hand after the plant finally croaked. It was moist, but not wet. Crumbly, soft, fluffy, [smelled moldy] which maybe the one indicator of a obvious moisture problem. Indeed, I had to listen to folks on these forums that know better than I, and I made a crucial adjustment. I stopped watering just because the top looked dry or felt dryish to the finger test. Instead, to satisfy my need to see nice black, moist dirt on top, I bought a pump sprayer and misted the tops, leaving the watering alone until it really WAS needed. To that mist I added foliar feeding fertilizer, and man, what a difference. Within two weeks, yellowing stopped and green started to take over. I really can't claim any credit, because before these forums helped me, my poor plantlets looked just like yours!
When you take them outside, do you keep them in the shade and out of the wind? Even an hour at a time will help to stiffen them up. A shady outside location will still be 10 times more light than they are getting under your lights. Al
See the FAQ titled
OK, my seedlings are growing, now what do I do?
There is also one on transplanting if needed.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs
keep 'em warm, read them stories, and so on
Little more complicated than that but the FAQs here cover all the basics. And please take them out of the rice now.
However you do need to know that they are hybrid varieties so what you get from the seeds, if they grow (many are sterile) will most likely not be the same. Hybrids often revert to parent stock.
So do some research into the differences between hybrids and open-pollinated varieties when it comes to growing from seed and then decide if it is worth spending the time on them.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Saving seeds from hybrids
THatstat,
I am doing the same thing for my mom. She saved the seed from the peppers she bought from walmarts produce department. I had a very high germination rate and they are growing nicely, though a few weeks behind my other peppers. I told her she may not get what she has bargained for, but she is up for the experiment. There is no telling about the parentage of those peppers, so she will have to take what she gets.
Lynn
Transplanted right after germination because they were in way too small pans. They Seem to be doing well but some of them had some trouble with growing due to transplanting or the soil. They were in a U shape coming out of the soil and going back in. The ones I caught early are doing better than the ones that I just found today. I have been giving them full sun as much as possible and even been putting them outside when it is warm enough (36 degrees or more) and they are getting bigger ;) I am going to be starting more in egg cartons to make it easier for me.
You are one zone up from me.
Last fall I read that Butterfly plant seeds don't like being pampered.
So when the plants produced seeds I just tossed them on the ground (where I wanted them) like they would do naturally. I have so many young plants now that I thinned many, many.
Saw a monarch on the parent today.
Bottomline, try to toss seeds on the outside soil in the fall.
I grow eggplants just for fun...since I do not like to eat them. They grow fast...and all sources say they hate to be transplanted....in my humble experience, I don't find that to be so. If your careful, just like when you transplant anything, they recover nicely, and quickly show you how much they like the extra leg room. I think that is what yours need. Is it possible they need a squirt of iron?
Hi,
This isn't exactly what your asking for but I thought I would volunteer this experience i had. Eggplants suffer what is known as blossom drop if the temps at night go below 50F. They will try and make new blossoms if this happens. However if you live in a cold environment you could possible be seeing as many as 70 % less eggplants at harvest time. I live in cold country and it wasn't worth it. The few eggplants that did come in were normal fruit though.
If you have an unusual summer with warm nights then you will be a big winner.
My dad the plant genetecist said this:
"Probably a hybrid variety? Ask them. Hybrid varieties do this every time. That is the plan for you to buy new seed every year
At very least there was some heterozygosity in the original seed which caused the segregation and recombination; the result is two colors.
Seed companies look for ways to have you Return and buy seed every year. The American way. Smiling."
Interesting, Amanda. Sandhill preservation center is a small family farm in Iowa known for their hard to come by heirloom seeds, and poultry. They are the only source I have been able to find for my favorite variety of okra, the Texas longhorn. They have all grown true except this one red plant. Possible the plant was accidentally cross-pollinated with one of their burgandy varieties? Anyway I will transplant these, the resulting pods should tell the tale.
SOIL temperature for germination 70-75F taking 14 days. growing on temp (after germination)60-62F & takes 3-6 weeks from germination to transplant & in a 4" pot, 10-12 weeks to transplant outside. This plant will not tollerate cold ... & growth regulators helps at transplantIdeal pH 5.8-6.0 (Acid soil)
good light either natural or grow lights helpful.
Let the kids plant the seeds in the garden themselves so they have that experience. It's too cold in NY yet to plant cukes. Wait till May. I would put the seedlings you have on a sunny windowsill at school for now. Planting them in your garden will not be good for transplanting later.
I used to be a teacher with a class garden. Good luck. You're doing a nice thing. You might want to plant peas which mature before school is out for the summer.
Agree that direct seeding is by far the best. if you must have cuke transplants start some new ones and pitch these. There is plenty of time still.
Cukes like many other vegetables prefer to avoid transplanting, much less transplanting them twice. Once they develop more than a couple of true leaves, much less begin to bloom, they often tend to stunt if transplanted.
Like Susan said let the kids learn about seeds to plant rather than the artificial method of gardening that uses only transplants.
Dave
Whats the npk on the fertilizer? Im thinking to much fertilizer. starters dont need a whole lot and earthgrow potting soil should have enough nutrients to last for a month. If i remember right seedlings dont use any fertalizer till there true leaves start coming out. They come prepackaged with there own food.
It will take at least 6 weeks to have transplants ready to set out.. I am starting mine tomorrow but then we can't set them out until the first week of June and we typically have tomatoes ready to eat in August.
I don't know how hot it gets where you live but if tomatoes have done all right in the past in your climate then I'd say go ahead and plant but buy a couple of ones already started for earlier tomatoes. Then you'd have the best of both worlds
Agree with all mandolls said. Fertilizing seedlings is strictly optional. First you have to make sure there is none in your potting mix. if there is, adding more stuff only stresses the seedlings.
If done it MUST be done with a well diluted (1/4 strength) fertilizer. That means a liquid. Only recommended organic liquid usually recommended is fish emulsion since it is already in an emulsion or some of the worm tea products. Most organics don't work in sterile soil.
Which is yet another example of all the mis-leading "organic" marketing hoopla out there. But that is another issue all together.
Dave
For the first time I lost some seedlings due to fertilizer. I have a large sink in the greenhouse that I use for watering seedlings from the bottom. I keep a few inches of water in it and drop the containers of seedlings in it when needed. While using the same sink for my new divisions of last years perennials, I added the normal amount of soluble fertilizer. The next time I put a pot of seedlings in the same water, the effect on the seedlings was seen the next day. The lesson is, if you must fertilize seedlings, be sure it is a VERY weak solution. Years ago I did use a compost leach-ate with mixed results. Al
I've found some plants can get their roots through the pot but the pot itself takes a long time to disintegrate. I usually remove a good deal of a peat pot when I plant. I'm probably going to move away from them next year.
peat pots are perfect, i use them all them time almost for everything, and my plants grow quite huge. I start my seeds in 4" pots, and I just moved them to 1 gallon grow bags on the weekend.