6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Here is a link to your post of this question from several years back. I think it answers all your questions. You'll also find discussions about growing it over on the Herbs forum, since that is basically what it is, a herb.
I Googled for seeds and found several sources listed.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Your previous post of this question
I have grown this variety for years in my zone 3 garden. I started them from seed as you did. The problem with direct sowing is the length of time they need to become a viable plant. I'd say save your seed and start them next year.
This is a very short lived perennial. It blooms so profusely that it actually blooms itself to death. I cut off any blooms about 3 weeks before frost to strengthen the plant. Even with that I still save seeds and plant them every couple of years so I always have this lovely plant
Here in zone 6 I direct sow coreopsis yearly. I literally prepare the soil and broadcast the seed then water a bit, that's it, germinates in a week or so. Now this was with some coreopsis variety that was grown by my grandma and she gave me the seed. Note that coreopsis is incredibly easy to start indoors as well. You're not late, start a few inside under heat if possible and they will germinate quickly.
Well, if you don't mind tootling up to Petaluma, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds has a store there (called The Seed Bank) on the corner of N. Petaluma Blvd. and Washington. They have the two varieties you mentioned and are reasonably priced. I love that place.
Edited to add: I think I should warn you they're closed on Saturday.
Here is a link that might be useful: Petaluma Seed Bank
This post was edited by lelia on Fri, Apr 12, 13 at 14:41
Most all the colored peppers are hybrids and any store-bought peppers with the exception of red chilis and jalapeno will be too.
You can separate and transplant them now. The sooner the better given how close they are growing together. Just handle them by the leaves not the stems.
Dave
It's less trouble for me to plant the seed directly into the permanent container.
Can someone explain the how to sow directly into the pot for tomato seeds? Am I filling the pot only slightly, then waiting for the seed to germinate. And as the stem grows, I add more soil?
or do i fill the entire container with soil and amendments and plant the seed towards the surface of the mix?
This post was edited by gardenweb88 on Fri, Apr 12, 13 at 21:21
Am I filling the pot only slightly, then waiting for the seed to germinate. And as the stem grows, I add more soil?
Just like that. Check out all the FAQs here too. They cover all the basics.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs
Woo-hoo! Finally finished! Well not entirely. I still have to fill in the boxes with soil & transfer my seedlings. I had to get my in-laws out here to finish the final stretch. We got rain yesterday & the day before, so everything is settled in nicely. I still have to build a fence-type trellis for my gourds. Not sure yet on where to have it.
I assume you mean "scarified"? Generally, it is the larger, exceptionally hard-shelled seeds. But the list is easily hundreds of varieties and far too long to type it all out for you. What specifically are you interested in knowing about?
Better yet just go to one of the many germination databases and you can look up each plant variety to find out if it needs scarification or not.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Seed germination databases
I have never used jiffy planters. I bought them once because I needed the heat mat. After reading reviews about them I decided against using them. That said I believe they're designed to transplant by transplanting the entire thing. If that's what you're going to do then you'll need to thin your plants down. If you want to prick them out then you'll need to have containers, pre wet seed starting/cutting mix or a good potting soil, and a tool such as a chop stick. I think there is a pro tool called a dibbler. I've pricked out 1000s of seedlings and rarely lose any in the process. If you feel the root snap while doing it then it's a goner. I start by using the chop stick and cut a little circle around the seedling. Then in a couple places stick the chop stick in and lift the seedling partially. The grab the seedling by the leaves and gently tug while continuing to lift with the chop stick. In the meantime the containers should be filled. Take the chop stick and make a hole all the way to the bottom and about the width of a dime at the top. Take the seedling and gently put it in the hole. Next take the chop stick and and insert it a few places to gently press some of the mix towards the seedling to avoid air pockets. Then use a hand sprayer and mist the container. Keep out of direct sunlight for a day. It may sound tricky but after a dozen attempts it gets fairly easy.
Check out the FAQ here on how to transplant.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Transplanting FAQ
Average last frost date for my zip is May 10, which puts me 4 weeks before as of tomorrow. I don't plan on putting in the warm weather plants until probably a couple of weeks after that, however, depending on the weather forecasts.
I used this site for seed starting dates:
http://www.chestnut-sw.com/seeds/vegseed.htm
http://www.chestnut-sw.com/seeds/flowseed.htm
According to that, the kale, collards, and chard should be able to be transplanted now (if they were full size), lettuce a couple of weeks from now, and the marigolds obviously not for a while (though they said start seeds 6-8 weeks before frost, which is what I did). It's possible that site is wrong though, in which case my dates are obviously a bit off :)
In an ideal world, the chard, kale, and collards would go in ASAP, but I realize they are still babies. I was honestly hoping that I could get them finish growing outside for the last couple of weeks in the sun, since everything I've been reading indicates how much better it is for light.
My main concern though is creating some space indoors on my one sunny light-supplemented windowsill, since there are a few other things I'd like to get started. The marigolds will also have to stay there for quite a while.
Ideally, I'd like to have the tolerant seedlings outside during the day and then bring them into the screened in porch at night. The daytime temperatures around here are relatively friendly this time of year, but the nights are not so much. Being a complete newbie, I'm not sure if that ever makes sense though, so I appreciate the input.
Maybe you can setup some sort of a coldframe on the porch area to speed things up. Not sure how many plants you have. A laundry basket turned upside down covered with row cover and or painter's plastic as a cheapo example. . Or you can make inexpensive coldframes out of rolled fencing, painter's plastic and rocks or bricks and just have that out in the yard. Gallon containers filled with hot water can release heat most of the evening. Some people recommend painting them black when I've used them before I filled them with various food dyes.
This post was edited by gjcore on Thu, Apr 11, 13 at 14:55
You do not water your seeds if the mixture is wet through but yours wasn't and the seeds won't germinate if they are dry. with the mix dry mist your seeds every day and maybe more often.
If it were me I'd cut the center out of the lids on your egg cartons and take them out of the microwave. Then I'd soak the bottoms in a pan of water until the dark shows on top of the soil and put a piece of saran wrap over the hole in the lid. Then I'd set them in a place that is warm and free from drafts. A microwave closed has dead air and plants need some air. Then don't water until the mixture is dry again
Look on your seed package and it will tell you the number of days for germination. My guess is that it will be about a week. Start counting from the time you wet the mix
i would have used cardboard egg cartons, that way you can transplant to whole works - you learn by mistakes :)
Also, you would have been able to put the carton in a pan of water, and it would have soaked up the correct amount of water it needs. Plastic egg carton are a disaster. :)
- best regards, paul m.
I have thought about doing the same thing, but I have more than enough petunias at this point and am out of space. You definitely want to at least pinch back the cutting, so they bush out. Three weeks seems a little young to do more than snip off one piece, but if you do that, in three more weeks it may be ready to give you several cutting from each.
Horticultural catalogs carry the clear, green, and brown plastic netting and the Sphagnum moss to contain the root ball for making these if interested.
Or it is even cheaper to buy the moss and a small roll of the plastic fencing and make your own. Lowe's and Home Depot carry both this time of year and color of the netting is the only limitation.
Plant selection needs to be limited to those with the same light and water needs otherwise you have to water 'something' almost daily. And they will still need at least weekly attention for trimming, deadheading, etc. to maintain appearance. I recommend using purchased 'houseplants'. The small 6" pots of them are inexpensive and easy to ball up.
As an alternative consider one of the so-called "living wall planters". Linked an example of one type below but there are many. Scope out all the various pics attached to it for ideas. They can be attached to walls or hung suspended.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Living wall planters
They are very cool looking, especially that last picture, but they must take constant maintenance and clean up. Are you also tasked with daily care taking?
If a perfect sphere is a requirement. You could start with a hollow rubber ball - cut off the top - pierce holes for drainage and air, and then hide it in sphagnum moss and netting. It would also contain the dirt and water better, keeping it from dropping all over the office floor. It would actually be a "pot", but not recognizable as one.
I just got back from Piura. bought some huacatay seeds along with Rocoto and Aji Limo. The company name is Alabama S.A. out of Callao Lima. This stuff is pretty easy to get nowadays.
Frankymac: I bought some huacatay seeds from Alabama Co a few years ago but not a single one germinated--people say it is fairly easy to grow so I took it kind of personally :)
I grew up in Piura as a child and I am very jealous of all your ajies, could you tell me if you have been able to germinate and grow Huacatay yourself?
Thanks a lot