6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Average last frost date for my zip is May 10, which puts me 4 weeks before as of tomorrow. I don't plan on putting in the warm weather plants until probably a couple of weeks after that, however, depending on the weather forecasts.
I used this site for seed starting dates:
http://www.chestnut-sw.com/seeds/vegseed.htm
http://www.chestnut-sw.com/seeds/flowseed.htm
According to that, the kale, collards, and chard should be able to be transplanted now (if they were full size), lettuce a couple of weeks from now, and the marigolds obviously not for a while (though they said start seeds 6-8 weeks before frost, which is what I did). It's possible that site is wrong though, in which case my dates are obviously a bit off :)
In an ideal world, the chard, kale, and collards would go in ASAP, but I realize they are still babies. I was honestly hoping that I could get them finish growing outside for the last couple of weeks in the sun, since everything I've been reading indicates how much better it is for light.
My main concern though is creating some space indoors on my one sunny light-supplemented windowsill, since there are a few other things I'd like to get started. The marigolds will also have to stay there for quite a while.
Ideally, I'd like to have the tolerant seedlings outside during the day and then bring them into the screened in porch at night. The daytime temperatures around here are relatively friendly this time of year, but the nights are not so much. Being a complete newbie, I'm not sure if that ever makes sense though, so I appreciate the input.
Maybe you can setup some sort of a coldframe on the porch area to speed things up. Not sure how many plants you have. A laundry basket turned upside down covered with row cover and or painter's plastic as a cheapo example. . Or you can make inexpensive coldframes out of rolled fencing, painter's plastic and rocks or bricks and just have that out in the yard. Gallon containers filled with hot water can release heat most of the evening. Some people recommend painting them black when I've used them before I filled them with various food dyes.
This post was edited by gjcore on Thu, Apr 11, 13 at 14:55
You do not water your seeds if the mixture is wet through but yours wasn't and the seeds won't germinate if they are dry. with the mix dry mist your seeds every day and maybe more often.
If it were me I'd cut the center out of the lids on your egg cartons and take them out of the microwave. Then I'd soak the bottoms in a pan of water until the dark shows on top of the soil and put a piece of saran wrap over the hole in the lid. Then I'd set them in a place that is warm and free from drafts. A microwave closed has dead air and plants need some air. Then don't water until the mixture is dry again
Look on your seed package and it will tell you the number of days for germination. My guess is that it will be about a week. Start counting from the time you wet the mix
i would have used cardboard egg cartons, that way you can transplant to whole works - you learn by mistakes :)
Also, you would have been able to put the carton in a pan of water, and it would have soaked up the correct amount of water it needs. Plastic egg carton are a disaster. :)
- best regards, paul m.
I have thought about doing the same thing, but I have more than enough petunias at this point and am out of space. You definitely want to at least pinch back the cutting, so they bush out. Three weeks seems a little young to do more than snip off one piece, but if you do that, in three more weeks it may be ready to give you several cutting from each.
Horticultural catalogs carry the clear, green, and brown plastic netting and the Sphagnum moss to contain the root ball for making these if interested.
Or it is even cheaper to buy the moss and a small roll of the plastic fencing and make your own. Lowe's and Home Depot carry both this time of year and color of the netting is the only limitation.
Plant selection needs to be limited to those with the same light and water needs otherwise you have to water 'something' almost daily. And they will still need at least weekly attention for trimming, deadheading, etc. to maintain appearance. I recommend using purchased 'houseplants'. The small 6" pots of them are inexpensive and easy to ball up.
As an alternative consider one of the so-called "living wall planters". Linked an example of one type below but there are many. Scope out all the various pics attached to it for ideas. They can be attached to walls or hung suspended.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Living wall planters
They are very cool looking, especially that last picture, but they must take constant maintenance and clean up. Are you also tasked with daily care taking?
If a perfect sphere is a requirement. You could start with a hollow rubber ball - cut off the top - pierce holes for drainage and air, and then hide it in sphagnum moss and netting. It would also contain the dirt and water better, keeping it from dropping all over the office floor. It would actually be a "pot", but not recognizable as one.
I would transplant into plastic containers around 3 inch diameter. As long as you can handle seedlings, in my opinion, then you can prick them out. If you're going to try to transplant the entire contents into a new container then you'll need to trim back the peat pot all along the top edge as well as remove some sections along the bottom.
I would prick them out now.
You did not harm the seeds you may have helped them. That seed coating has to come off before they can germinate. They are only pelletized fir ease of planting. The coating has to be kept moist to dissolve so mist them daily. That should answer number 1
2) yes if it says just press into the soil that means that variety needs light to germinate
3) I don't know I usually start mine in a communal flat and transplant. The Geraniums, Petunias, Dahlias and Nicotania will have to be separated or some pinched out--I vote fir separation. The lobelia is fine with 3 seeds in a cell. I've never grown Angelonia so I don't know about them. You will have late Geraniums. I started mine in February as I do every year and they only have buds when I set them out in the first part of June
4) The mat sounds good but I'd lower the lights to an inch.
5) My lights are set for 15 hours but I don't think another hour would matter much.
6) I think I've already answered this
I hope you have great success
Then you need to add that to your posts. If you fill out your member profile page it is automatic. Otherwise you have to add it each time you post in the box provided for it.
In 5b it will be a month or more before that plant can go out to the garden so by then it will be quite big and may not survive transplanting. But you can always direct seed them at the proper planting time.
Dave
It is too cold in zones 5-7. The controlling factor is the nighttime temperature. It needs to be at least 45 degress; 55 degrees is better. If you decide to set them out anyway, use a pot, can, or other cover to protect them during the nights and any cold days. May 15 or later is better for your zone.
Sintro:
I have grown a lot of plants from seed in the past. I recall
parsley being very slow to germinate. I remember soaking the seeds in a container of water overnite before planting them. Be patient, they should come up.
I am not sure why one would nick the seedcoat on summer squash? Typically seeds with a very hard seedcoat need to be soaked in water, seed coat nicked
by file or sandpaper or treated in a weak acid bath before sowing to hasten the ability of water to penetrate the hard seed coat. I do not put summer squash seeds
in this catagory.
I find just the opposite when planting squash/pumpkin seeds. They are very prone to rotting when too wet so
I try to keep them a bit on the dryer side when trying to
germinate them. I would not soak them in water before
planting.
You ask about fertilizer. It might be the lighting in your photo, but the plants on the right side of the photo seem
very light green. I would think this to be a nitrogen issue.
Once they root in a bit, fertilize with a liquid fertilizer to green them up.
Thanks for the helpful info and link Art33. I'll have to go read that...
Also, the plants on the right(lettuce) are pretty pale green, good to know that it's a nitrogen issue! They are just starting to develop mini true leaves(.5 cm wide). I'll make sure to fertilize diluted once those unfurl.
I was just reading about "double dormancy" that some seeds can fall into. To wake them up they might need a soaking. Try 4-5 of each overnight. Regularly I just soak 3 hours for new seeds I buy in fold packages.
I like the paper towel method Suzi mentioned to wake up seeds in a deep sleep.
My method might be different than most people, but I put them in a damp paper towel folded over and place in a plastic sandwich container on top of the frig for 2-3 days. They may not have germinated but it helps break the dormancy.
Some folks use coffee filters also. Guess there are many ways to do most things in the garden.
Sounds like the disease called damp-off from the information provided.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ - Damp-Off
You have several things working against you and the first one is the BioDome cells, the sponges. The primary reason why many recommend replacing them with a good potting mix instead.
Then there was apparently far too long on the heat pad. They come off the heat at the first signs of germination.
Then, because those cells stay so wet you are over-watering. Thus the yellow leaves.
Plus they are difficult to transplant. You can probably save some of these by transplanting them into a good quality soil-less potting mix. Unfortunately that means you have to plant them sponge plug and all so watering will still need to be monitored carefully. Once placed in potting mix those sponge plugs seem to go from sopping wet to bone dry and back to sopping wet. There seems to be no way to keep the soil moisture consistent.
Dave
I am very grateful for your timely replies and your experienced insights. I will transplant immediately. I have only fertilized once with a dilute PHC Plant Health Care for Seedlings and Houseplants from Gardeners Supply.
Luckily I have another batch of petunias and salvias that were started two weeks before these and are doing well.
Beth
I have never used jiffy planters. I bought them once because I needed the heat mat. After reading reviews about them I decided against using them. That said I believe they're designed to transplant by transplanting the entire thing. If that's what you're going to do then you'll need to thin your plants down. If you want to prick them out then you'll need to have containers, pre wet seed starting/cutting mix or a good potting soil, and a tool such as a chop stick. I think there is a pro tool called a dibbler. I've pricked out 1000s of seedlings and rarely lose any in the process. If you feel the root snap while doing it then it's a goner. I start by using the chop stick and cut a little circle around the seedling. Then in a couple places stick the chop stick in and lift the seedling partially. The grab the seedling by the leaves and gently tug while continuing to lift with the chop stick. In the meantime the containers should be filled. Take the chop stick and make a hole all the way to the bottom and about the width of a dime at the top. Take the seedling and gently put it in the hole. Next take the chop stick and and insert it a few places to gently press some of the mix towards the seedling to avoid air pockets. Then use a hand sprayer and mist the container. Keep out of direct sunlight for a day. It may sound tricky but after a dozen attempts it gets fairly easy.
Check out the FAQ here on how to transplant.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Transplanting FAQ