6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Hi Harley - I see you already got an answer to this question over on the Vegetable gardening forum and unfortunately the answer is no.

Unless the various varieties are color coded by the vendor they can't be identified unless you happen to have separate seed packs of each of those varieties to compare to. Even then there is no way to be sure as the seeds are so similar.

This is one reason why buying the mixed seed packets isn't always a good idea. :)

Dave

    Bookmark     April 6, 2013 at 10:57AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
harleyhappy

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm just a gambler and I don't mind trying some new varieties ; )

I was just hoping that I could find a way to give the Ronde de Nice a little extra space, since that plant might be a bit bigger. Oh well, wish me luck!

    Bookmark     April 6, 2013 at 8:01PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
715rose

Just wondering,could they be getting too much light. ? Remember impatiens are shade plants & wouldn't be grown in same light as tomatoes.
Rose

    Bookmark     April 6, 2013 at 10:45AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Is it possible they are infected with the downy mildew that was devastating impatiens last year? It is apparently not passed on through seeds, but it can be passed on by soil and containers. It stunted my impatiens in hanging baskets last summer.

Here is a link that might be useful: Impatiens disease becomes hot topic

    Bookmark     April 6, 2013 at 11:08AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sjd181(6b)

The cells are 1 3/8 inches square and 2 inches deep. Its a Burpee seed starting, self watering kit with a plastic "roof." My seeds just started to sprout yesterday, they have only been in for 6 days.

I am growing them in my office under my flourescent desk lamp. I am not sure how long they can stay in the seed starter before I have to transplant them.

Silly question, but are these 4 inch pots the kind you plant into the ground?

    Bookmark     April 6, 2013 at 9:45AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
susanzone5(z5NY)

You'll have to transplant them. 4" pots are any plastic pot/cup with drainage holes in them. Next year you can start them in bigger cell paks. At this point in the growing season, you can transplant them into 3" pots because you'll be planting them out soon. They sell these pots in packages at nurseries. Over the years you can collect a lot of pots and cell paks and reuse them.

    Bookmark     April 6, 2013 at 9:56AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I keep hoping someone with better eyes than mine will answer this question for you.

Honestly I can't see what if anything is wrong in your picture. Sorry.

Bu now they should have grown quite a bit so perhaps a new picture with a close up of the problem could be posted?

Dave

    Bookmark     April 5, 2013 at 5:27PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
blowell(5b)

Sounds like damping off. Seedlings are exceptionally susceptable. Several common fungia are capable of causing damping off, including Rhizoctonia, Alternaria, Sclevotinia, and water molds Pythium and Phytopthora. Symptoms can include rotting or wilting of seedlongs, leaf mottling, stem leisons that cause the stem to turn black, and appear waterlogged. Plants often die off in a circular pattern as the fungi radially from the point of contamination.
my advice is to purge the already infected seedling, and the adjcent plants to stop the spread.

    Bookmark     April 6, 2013 at 9:20AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Hi, Grace. Just wanted to point out that 1/2 teaspoon Foliage Pro per 40 ounces is not weak. The package suggests 1 teaspoon per gallon (128 ounces) once a week for adult plants. Half strength would be more like 1/8 teaspoon per 40 ounces. Also, the package suggests 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon for foliar feeding. I don't like to foliar feed seedlings because of the risk of burning them, especially if they are exposed to sun with dried fertilizer on the leaves.

    Bookmark     April 5, 2013 at 7:56PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sugi_c(9a)

Ohio, sorry - typo! I actually do around 1/8 tsp -- but I am not measuring, really -- I use like two little droplets into the spray bottle. It's ABOUT 1/8 tsp, give or take. I hadn't made this to foliar feed, really, though that was a side effect; I use the spray bottle to actually water the soil. I'd guess it takes around 5-6 squirts per cell on the days I water.

I dunno -- this whole "planting in Turface" is new to me! It just seems to me that compared to other mediums, it contains nothing so I feel like I should supplement.

I did notice, especially today, that the growth is very strong and erect compared to the first batch which was in a peat + perlite mix. Those turned out nice but I can't say they were particularly lovely seedlings, I pulled one out of one cell which had two pop up and there's one really thick, white and straight root I stuck that one into a pot of shiso already going.... So far, impressed with Turface fines!

    Bookmark     April 6, 2013 at 3:27AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
emcd124(5)

I should start by saying this is my first year trying peppers from seed.

I am growing: mini bells, mini red bells (two diff traded seed sources), king of the north, peppadew, and Doe..which are all sweets. For hots I'm growing: jalapeno, orange habs, thai orange, and chinese 5 color.

I soaked all my seeds overnight in camomile and then started them in a Park biodome. within a week (with no bottom heating) most of the varieties had visible roots coming out of the seeds (you can peek down into the hole in the park sponge). Within 10 days the jalapenos and mini bells had green sprouts.

So for what thats worth, maybe the camomile is good for getting things going.

The other experiment I did was with using a crock pot to generate bottom heat. I put 3 C of water into the crock pot, covered it with a towel, then put a thick metal tray on top and the biodome on top of that. I put the crock on "warm" (not high or low) and using an air thermometer timed how long it took to get to 90 degrees and how long it took for the time to coast off. On warm it took about an hour to an hour and 20 to get up to 90, then I would shut the crock off, and it would stay warm in the biodome (above 70) for up to 4.5-5 hours afterwards.

Because it all depends a bit on your crock pot and your ambient household temps, its probably worth doing it while keeping an eye on a thermometer if you want to try, and it probably only works if you are doing small scale seed starting, like one tray that needs bottom heat, rather than an industrial set up. But it is cheaper than buying into the heat mats, and after your've timed out your temp cycle you can regulate the crock pot using a $5-10 regular outlet timer (like the type people use to turn lamps off and on when they are away from home) to cycle the crock through on and off to keep temps within the 70-90 range.

    Bookmark     April 5, 2013 at 9:48PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
SouthCountryGuy Zone 4b-5 SE BC(Zone 4b-5 SE BC Canada)

Too much to read to know my $10 heat mat does peppers, Sorry.

    Bookmark     April 6, 2013 at 1:19AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
gjcore(zone 5 Aurora Co)

Peppers always seem to grow slowly especially at first. They should pick up their growth rate in a few weeks.

Room temperature is little low for peppers but acceptable.

    Bookmark     April 5, 2013 at 9:31PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
John_JJ(5)

well i started it about 2 weeks ago and i want to put it outside in may

This post was edited by John_JJ on Fri, Apr 5, 13 at 19:09

    Bookmark     April 4, 2013 at 9:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
John_JJ(5)

how much times do i feed my plant till i put them in the garden

    Bookmark     April 5, 2013 at 7:10PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Hydrostone, hydroton, other names too - clay pellet growing medium

Here is a link that might be useful: Example here

    Bookmark     April 5, 2013 at 12:24PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
cwatson89

Thanks! Another question, how would you use these? would you just put them in and then add seeds and let it grow? no soil involved?

    Bookmark     April 5, 2013 at 1:51PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Your first post is just a couple posts down the page. If you can't see it you are viewing a cached page - just hit refresh.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 5, 2013 at 11:08AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

I do quite a lot of Cana specie seeds by rolling them between two coarse sandpaper blocks until a white spec shows. Al

    Bookmark     April 5, 2013 at 9:57AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dsb22(z7 VA)

Tommyr, I'm using a heat mat set at 75 degrees and spring onions started coming up in 4-5 days.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2013 at 11:24PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tommyr_gw

Thanks for the tip dsb!

    Bookmark     April 4, 2013 at 6:36AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
hurrihottie

I used peat pots last year when I started from seed. Had every seed sprout & they all survived outside when I moved them. They are a pain to keep moist & I've had the white mold issue too, but it never affected any of my plants. They are cheap & biodegradable so I will continue to use them.

    Bookmark     March 29, 2013 at 9:34PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dsb22(z7 VA)

I have very good results using peat pellets with a heat mat and thermostat set at 75 degrees. I'm currently using the black plastic pots and styrofoam cups when I pot up, but I've been tempted to try the peat pots. Geneo74, any idea what the brand is of the peat pots you describe?

This post was edited by dsb22 on Thu, Apr 4, 13 at 0:52

1 Like    Bookmark     April 4, 2013 at 12:25AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Basil and most other herbs will probably bounce back with new grow as long as the root ball wasn't damaged. They will sprout new growth from the rootball if it is just kept lightly moist.

The peppers are another issue. Some of them 'might' sprout some new growth if there is an unbroken/undamaged node left on the stem. But most of them won't and if they do it will take quite a while to do it and the growth of the plant will always be stunted.

We often take cuttings from pepper plants in the nursery to root new cuttings but the original plant never fully recovers. Woody stem plants like peppers usually switch to a short bushy growth form and any peppers it produces are very small. Honestly I would plan to replace them.

Hope this helps.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 3, 2013 at 5:06PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
noteybook(5)

Thank you very much Dave! I was afraid for the peppers, I'm swimming in Jalepeno but the Habeneros pretty much got crushed. I'll look into buying new plants, since it's a tad late in my zone to start them from seed again.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2013 at 5:25PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You will need annuals of course rather than perennials and the red color choice limits you some but then you already know that. Still I would also post this over on the Annuals forum here for more suggestions since that is the focus of that forum. There are several past discussions there on specific color recommendations.

My suggestions would be reds: Century Fire Celosia (start indoors now, seeds will germinate in ten days at 70 degrees), Scarlet Sage Salvia (somewhat difficult and slow to germinate so start ASAP and they need light to germinate 12 to 15 days at 70 degrees to 75 degrees), and Aztec Red Verbena (easy to germinate indoors at 75 degrees). And of course there are always the common red geraniums.

Hope this helps and good luck with all the wedding plans.

Dave

PS: just me but I'd toss in a few black flowers spots too just for contrast. :)

    Bookmark     April 3, 2013 at 12:56PM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™