6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
If you have a good container you can place all your "pots" into then why buy? Just find yourself a good even drinking glass and make your own pots from newspaper? If they are packed together they would not need any added support. You just roll the newspaper around the lip end of the glass with as much depth as you like and then tuck the left over end into the glass and slide the newspaper off to make your pots. I copied this off the web it was not my idea. There was a time I did make mine almost the same way but by wetting strips of newspaper but they no longer have any "glue" that made them firm as they once would.
Every seed I have ever heard of needs to be dry before harvesting. But new Rosemary plants are best gotten from cuttings. The seeds have a very low germination rate from all I have read. Not only are cuttings easier but much faster. But then the fun is in having success starting anything from seed so let the venture began
This is a Seed Saving question and they have their own forum here. It is direct linked near the top of this forum's page.
But the basic answer is no you cannot. The seeds will still be immature and non-viable. They have to mature on the plant.
Dave
You will have to transplant the blocks into larger containers or blocks now. The longer you wait to do it the more damage that will be done.
Transplanting prior to true leaf developments is done all the time by experienced growers. Waiting for true leaves is just a guideline used for those new to growing from seed.
Dave
Most of my containers are on a drip system outside, and I get all kinds of things growing in them!
I have wine grape seedlings in 2, a fig seedling in one, and many weed seedlings! I grow figs and wine grapes and know the leaf patterns.
I just pull the weeds once i figure out what they are.
Good luck and I hope you have a real plant there!
Suzi
Look at the attached link. As flora UK says, "possibly a morning glory of some kind".
Here is a link that might be useful: Cotton Morningglory: Ipomoea cordatotriloba
This post was edited by bugbite on Sat, Mar 30, 13 at 22:08
I think you may be mixing together a couple of unrelated suggestions. First, many large hard seeds will benefit from pre-soaking and it is a fairly common practice. However it is done with just lightly warm water and for a period of 12-24 hours.
A brief soak in a peroxide mixture (10:1 of water to peroxide) is recommended by some seed savers as a way of disinfecting saved seeds before drying them for storage. Some also use a diluted peroxide mist for stopping fungus/mold growth on soil. But adding it to a pre-soak isn't a common practice and while it might disinfect them it really serves no other real purpose.
Since you only soaked the seeds for such a short time I doubt the peroxide hurt them even though it is a stronger mixture. But how fast those seeds will germinate will all depend on the soil temperature used.
Most melon seeds will germinate in 4-8 days if given soil temps between 70-75 degrees, 3-5 days if provided with warmer soil. In cooler soil it can 10-14 days.
Let us know how yours do.
Dave
I did a test order and entered both codes and it states:
"FREE Shipping on your order.
15% off your order"
I deleted the test order and tried again, after your post, but the codes are locked in and I am still getting both.
Please try again and report back. If you can't get both, I will delete this post.
I did not go all the way to the payment screen (but it shows up in the checkout) because I am not planning on ordering.
Please let me know.
That's good to know! I think I may have sowed my seeds a tad bit late, but we'll see how it pans out.
You're in zone 5? So the winters here in 9 would be less severe than there, but I'm wondering about the summers. Anyway, regardless of the details, here in 9, should i plant in containers or the ground?
Given an option I would definitely plant in the ground. Even planted in the ground I was needing to hand water, in addition to the irrigation system, once or twice per week. But the summers are hot here and humidity levels are often around 10% in the summer.
My "guaranteed" last frost is the beginning of May. I'm in South Jersey and the weather is still pretty cold here. I was planning on starting to harden them off in a few weeks hopefully if it warms up some. Also, I was going to make self watering containers for them instead of planting. I like the idea of the plants having water to take as they need and the freedom to move them around my yard. My garden got a little crowded last year.
Any seed that is not a hybrid will grow true if it was grown in seclusion from others of it's species. With hybrid seeds it is a crap shoot. Sometimes you get the plant you want but most times you don't
Since most flower seeds are hybrids saved seed will not grow true. The size of the seed makes no difference.
Hybrid seeds have many ancestors and the flower it produces can resemble any one of them. It may also have been pollinated by another species and it could resemble the pollinator.
The only way to get a plant that you want is to buy seeds. Then you know what you are getting.
All that having been said I have found that some hybrid seed does come true. If you are willing to chance it go ahead but don't be surprised if you don't get what you want. Then again you may get something you like better. As I said it's a crap shoot.
This is a very bizarre batch. Maybe it's the mixture of soil I used, or maybe it's something else. It's not the seeds, as the previous round of this all sprouted and are growing wonderfully.
I planted 12 and 5 never came up, 6 did as shown above and eventually withered completely (and still had green stems!) and one looked okay. I cut it off that cell pack (and threw the rest out) and took care or it with my other seeds.
This is today. Not only is it not vigorous, it's beginning the whole browning/dying process.
Any ideas what is happening here?
Probably ready for the coldframe though you should adapt them to that for a at least a few days first. If you have a fan you might want to leave it running near your seedlings for a few days. I leave a fan going near my seedlings about 14 hours per day. I
Recently began to think the amount of light is directly related to the required depth of planting the seed.
See depth page 54 of the attached book.
Here is a link that might be useful: Light/depth
This post was edited by bugbite on Thu, Mar 28, 13 at 12:07
Try this site. Tom Clothier's Garden Walk and Talk. Click on the seed germination database you need.
http://tomclothier.hort.net
It will tell you all you need to know.
I did not want to use pesticides in the garden, but after years of having bugs, particulary tiny, tiny beetles chew up my plants, I finally bought plant spray from Lowes. It did the trick. I tryed the "natural stuff" before, but it seemed rather ineffective. So I got the regular garden stuff. It works.
One thing I learned about garden mistakes, DON'T WORRY ABOUT. You will have plenty of chances to get it right.
If you have a plant disaster that is breaking your heart, pull the darn thing, quick. Suffer no more! Move on.
Watch those peppers for a few days, then pull quickly and replace them if they don't look good.
You have a lot of months ahead of you to
grow a new batch.
I'd also be interested in any replies you get Nico girl, just starting veg last year, and curious from my reading about using loo rolls, newspaper pots or fibre/peat pots. All of which have been given to me over past few months. Esp wondering if planting any or all of these into ground avoids transplant shock? Eg if peat pots are ripped?
This is the second year I've tried strictly peat pots and I've had so many issues with my seedlings thinking the issues were something else. I came across this post and realized I've seen all of the problems described above.
I used to use plastic pots and thought I remembered not having to baby seedlings as much as I have been lately. It's good to know I haven't lost my touch! I am currently in the process of moving everything to plastic and will hopefully save the youngsters!