6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

If the surface of the medium looks moist you do not need to add any more water. Observe your trays every day and wait until they feel light again before watering again. We can't give you exact instructions about how much and how often because there are so many variables. Observation is key to looking after your seeds. You will learn to tell just by looking what needs doing. We can't teach you that. But be aware that more newbies lose seeds from too much intervention than too little.

When I am germinating and when my seedlings are small enough that they are in a 2" container - I check them twice a day - everyday. Last year I had to leave town for 4 days due to a family emergency and I lost almost a quarter of my youngsters.

And by the way - depending on what you are growing, some seeds do need light to germinate, so in a dark garage, depending on what you are growing you may need those lights on for germination. Its important to do some reading up on the needs of each type of plant you are starting. Different seeds have different needs. It makes it difficult to try to start so many different types at the same time in the same tray.

Some plants are easy and I am sure you will have some successes no matter what you do. Others are more demanding and you may lose them no matter how careful you are. This is my 4th year growing under lights, I learn more every year and get better at it every year, but I still struggle and or lose completely with some plants - There are an enormous amount of variables, and ultimately everyone has to work out what works best for themselves with what they have to work with.

If you build it properly then it should work for you. When first starting with it you'll need to monitor the temperature outdoors and inside the tunnel. Keep in mind that your plants will be more at risk of burning than freezing. When in doubt make sure that it is ventilated during the day and closed at night. It's probably too early for things like tomatoes, peppers and basil to go into coldframes. Hardier things like spinach, onions, chives, lettuce, broccoli, mints, thyme, strawberries, cabbage etc are fine to be outside now.

You also need to harden plants off before moving them to cold frames. Not as much as a full time move to the great outdoors. I usually take about 4-5 days of increasing time outside. After being in my frames for about a week I consider them ready for transplanting though many will stay in the frames longer.

Below is a picture of my cold frames.

This post was edited by gjcore on Tue, Mar 26, 13 at 14:01

A cold frame can be very useful.I've used 2 for years.A heavy plastic or glass is needed.There are many inexpensive ways to rig up something to harden off plants.Sometimes I put plants in our garden cart with plastic on a frame on top.A quilt with tarp over will keep things warm if it turns cool.
rose

If they are all the same flower in the packet, just different colors and aren't marked as open-pollinated then the odds are 99% that they are all hybrids. Unfortunately some seed companies use the term 'heirloom' to label flowers that are hybrids just old flower varieties when it should only be used on open-pollinated varieties.

But to know for sure you have to look up each variety of flower. Seeds bought from reputable seeds companies will tell you if they are hybrids or heirlooms tho you may have to go to their website to get the info.

If the packets are mixed varieties of flowers then you have to look up each flower in the packet to find out and then sort out the seeds.

If open-pollinated flowers of only certain colors are what you want then you need to be buying individual packets of those so you can save seeds, not mixed packets of unknowns.

So what kind of flowers are we talking about anyway?

Dave

Mostly I want to know in case I save seed for trades, I typically buy mixed packets because I like a little of everything. I don't need 100 black poppies, but I may like to keep them in their own area in future or trade just blacks for example if I save the seeds.

Or I'm not sure what to label seeds if I just decide to harvest them, open-pollinated or pollinated by myself. I guess a good example would be a few types of petunia I bought and would like to keep seeds from since they're not that easy to find around here - black crystal ones and striped ones - if I breed them to each other would I get those colors in my seeds ?

Most of the books I've read don't mention if they're hybrid other than veggies.

Thank you guys, I'm glad to hear the T12s will work. We actually do have a second fixture so I can set that up too, we just have to head out and buy new bulbs, the ones in there now are pretty old.

Thank you guys, I'm glad to hear the T12s will work. We actually do have a second fixture so I can set that up too, we just have to head out and buy new bulbs, the ones in there now are pretty old.

Do you have a space in your flower beds on the south side, near the house to set up a cold frame? I used this to start flowers for years before I got my lights and greenhouse.

Near the house because it is warmer and on the south side because it is the sunniest. A simple cold frame costs only a pittance. You need 2 poles or something as long as your cold frame that you can staple plastic to. Next you need some heavy guage clear plastic and something to use for hoops. Heavy guage wire or dry cleaners hangers unwound and bent in a hoop shape. Look around and see what you can find--they only have to sit 2 to 2 1/2 feet high. You also need a couple of stones or bricks.

Cut a piece of plastic --doubled is best--wide enough to go over the frame with room to staple your poles on each side. Then gather together the ends and stretch it out past the last hoop. Put a brick or stone on this to hold it.To open it a little bring the end on the least windy side upto the first hoop and use a clothespin or clip to hold it there. On days you want it open more you can roll it up on the front pole. You will find you have to open it a little or a lot every day even couldy days. In a small space like that it doesn't take much for it to get too hot from just the sun. I opened mine around 9AM in the morning and closed it around 4 PM to let some heat build up

Set it up a week or 2 early to warm the ground. I suggest you plant your seed right in the soil. They take less care that way and do better than planted in pots. Make sure your plants don't touch the plastic or they'll freeze. The cold frame will protect your plants from a couple of degrees of frost. If you know it's getting colder than that throw a blanket or something over it

When transplanting these dig them out getting as much root as possible. Have your hole ready and fill it with water and let it soak into the ground, then plant your plant. Place an upside down colored--not clear pot over the newly planted plant. Place a clump of dirt or stone on top to keep it from blowing away. Leave it for 2 or 3 days. This allows the roots to get moisture right away and shades the plant so it can spread it's roots without coping with a too hot sun. When you take off the pot you'll notice a ring of moisture right around the plant and your plant is standing up and not wilting.

You can also use milk jugs or large pop bottles with the bottom cut out Warm the soil where you want them to grow like above. Plant 2 or 3 seeds and press the bottle into the soil over the seeds. Remove the lid to allow excess heat to escape. Check for water every couple of days and wait for them to grow. Again don't let the plant touch the sides. These are like little clouches and work great.

So there you have it. Hope it works for you

You have plenty of time if you still want to try the wintersowing method. Technically it's spring sowing from equinox onwards. I keep sowing right through the first week of May, sowing tender annuals last. Come on over to the forum, we're friendly. Several people offer seeds for SASBE to wintersowing newbies. Please look at the forum FAQs first. There's a ton of information there, thanks to Trudi. There is a section specifically on spring sowing if you scroll down.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wintersowing FAQ

Yazan,
Echinacea respond very well to wintersowing. If you plant the seeds into any container with drainage holes and decent quality growing medium, then cover with a clear plastic cover (seran wrap), you can put the container right outside and let the seeds sprout naturally as they would have if they had fallen on the ground. You also need to poke a few holes in the cover to allow for air exchange and for the rain and snow to provide moisture. Once they sprout, you can remove the cover. Echinacea should be able to tolerate most weather that comes its way. Or you could throw a cover over the seedlings when frost threatens. Check out the wintersowing FAQ. Good luck. Echinacea are great plants, and they will multiply for you so you'll never be without them.

Martha

Hi Martha,

Thanks for the help, I think I have enough seeds to try both Daves method and yours, i'll see which one does better,

Thanks Yazan

My babies have only just started on their real leaves, so no rosettes or anything yet...but the pic might help you with earlier identification. The sprout leaves are fat triangles, and the little real leaves have hairy looking edges.

Thanks so much, SaraElise!

I do have a couple things that *might* turn out to be winners. I'm going to keep watering and see what happens.

Here's another pic: