Mold. Soil is probably too heavy and wet. Spotted any small flies too?

Yeah, those tiny gnats that lay their eggs in the wet soil? I had those for awhile. So, how do I make a soil that's less heavy? I'm using Miracle Grow potting soil.

Mix coarse grit or perlite with it at potting time

Yes, it is a fungus. Molds like the one in your picture are filamentous fungi, but some molds are slimy.

I agree that your soil is probably too water-retentive, but the key issue is, you're watering to frequently. Mixing coarse grit/perlite into your soil at repotting time isn't going to solve the issue unless the grit/perlite is very coarse, and represents a very high % of the soil (>75-80%). To envision WHY this is, picture a cup of pudding in your mind's eye, then ask yourself how much grit/perlite will it take to make this pudding drain well?? You have essentially the same situation with a water-retentive soil. The fine soil particles simply surround the larger grit/perlite particles. There then will be no notable improvement in drainage (flow through rate) or the ht of the perched water table, which is the point on which your problem hinges. Grit/perlite will reduce the volume of water your soil CAN hold, without changing drainage rates or PWT height so as you would notice a difference. The primary advantage in using either would be found in the fact that a more favorable volume of air will return to the soil faster, due to the fact that the grit/perlite takes up space that would otherwise be occupied by water; but that fact alone won't solve the issue you asked after.

As a quick fix that treats the symptom, which in itself is probably harmless, you might brew up some strong chamomile tea with a little sulfured molasses or flowers of sulfur mixed into it and spritz the soil surface. That still leaves the underlying cause, whose effects are more far-reaching than the little bit of mold you're seeing. If you're interested in understanding how to fix the underlying issues and bake some significant inroads into your ability to provide a healthy root environment for all of your plants, let me know and we can discuss it. Otherwise, I wish you well and hope you have a happy Thanksgiving.

Al

Al,

I *am* very interested in a real fix. I'm so confused about all the different varieties of soil and all of the things you can add to it. I thought Miracle Grow potting soil would do the trick on its own.

I'm also having a hard time sorting out the fact that every one of my plants that I look up seems to have such different requirements from the other ones.

I am in a very small apartment with no closet space. (Literally, there is not a single closet in the apartment. If I were to buy different things like peat moss and perlite and such, could they be stored in 5-gallon buckets or something throughout the year. I'd just stack them in a corner somewhere.

I LOVE plants and the watching them prosper and such, so I really could use any advice you're willing to share. This is a new hobby for me, and I'm realizing it's not too much fun to do a hobby half-way. I want to learn about what makes them tick. I have been surprised though about how confusing all the info out there is. Sources even seem to contradict each other at times.

Thanks!

Here's something interesting for you to consider: It's a good bet that if you're growing common houseplants and succulents, that they all WANT pretty much the same things. Where they vary isn't so much in the area of what they WANT or PREFER, the variability between plants is primarily found in what they will tolerate. Somehow, plants that tolerate a wet soil somewhat better than their cousins have come to be labeled as preferring a soil wetter than other plants ....... and because some plants tolerate dry soils better than other plants, we regularly find repetition of the idea the plant likes to be dry before its watered. Peace lilies don't like soggy soil any more than sanseverias do .... its just that PLs TOLERATE a soil with more water retention than a sanseveria will. Both plants will do best when the soil is about as damp as a well wrung out sponge.

I make 2 different soils. One for long term plantings and one for short term plantings. The soils are extremely similar in their structure, which is the most important consideration. I treat all my plants essentially the same. I fertilize frequently at low doses, and water copiously every time I water. If you focus on finding the sweet spots when it comes tro your soil's structure and fertilizing, growing healthy plants can be amazingly easy. Trying to implement everyone's suggestions because they sound good is sure to complicate what CAN be simple, and leave you much more likely to be frustrated in the end because not all suggestions are compatible.

When you have time, and if you have the inclination, please read the link below that provides a basic overview of growing in containers. If it leaves you feeling at all enlightened, I'll link you to more information about understanding how soils work. I think that an understanding of that second bit of information probably represents the largest step forward a container gardener can make at any one time, but see what you think. I'll watch the thread for your comments after you read the info.

Al

Here is a link that might be useful: An overview

Most if any potting soils sold are ideal as they are. The trouble is plants have different needs. Some like moist soil, some need the soil to dry out totally first. Also many houseplants are sold with way too heavy soil. The soil is soggy so the plant can survive when in transit as it cant be watered then. I often see Gardenias and Azaleas sold in really thick heavy soil, totally soaked. If left like that the plant will succumb in not too long as the roots are starved of oxygen. First thing I do is repot into better draining soil after researching the plants needs. Course grit or perlite will help- i just dont like the look of perlite as its bright white, later yellowing.
In the old days crushed brick was always used, especially for cacti where draining is paramount.
Plus, if you can find/afford them clay pots do help as they are porous, allowing the roots to breathe and excess water to leave.

Sorry that should have begun Most potting soils are NOT ideal as sold.

Al, thank you and well put!

I will be support your findings with the fact that I can also treat mine just as you do with very much success!

I can water all my succulents, cacti, tropicals and even dormant plants when ever I want too, and treat them all the same since my mixes are made exactly like yours thanks to your help in years past.

I can even root most cuttings, including jades in the mixes I use without ever a fear of root rot. I can leave my plants in a very cold room and not worry about root rot after a watering, or even in the rain for days on end.
I like the fact that I can water all my plants equally, and not have to check every single one of them, well over 300 mind you, to see which pot is still wet and which one is dry.

It's a relief to my growing practices and a plus for very healthy plants! In fact. most if not all my plants do very well in a mix that only stays moist on the light side, and not wet or very damp which most mixes do not gine you this option.
For me it is best to have 'ALL' my plants in the very same mixes than to use different ones for different plants. Now that is when the fun is taken out of growing plants and the confusion steps in.

Mike

Exactly, Mike. For you, and for me, growing is extremely simplified. We don't have a lot of complications because we don't make choices that COME with complications. Growing well is easy, but it can be made to be complicated either inadvertently or by choice. Many growers choose to travel the complicated path and hold to the idea that every plant needs its own special kind of care, when large strides can be made by focusing on a few simple basics that favor the plant and make things easier on the grower.

Al

Al,
I found the link you listed above to be very helpful and have bookmarked it for further study later. At this point, I'm still confused about what I use to create an ideal soil. In other words, I need to know what to pick up at the nursery and in what proportions to combine it. I do want to get into the whys and hows, but for right now, I have a couple of plants in danger and two amaryllis bulbs I need to plan (indoors) and could really use some advice on how to mix up a fairly decent growing medium for them.
Thanks for all your help!

I understand your wanting to move ahead as quickly as possible. Usually though, that sort of pressure sets you up for frustration, because what kind of soil you can build depends a lot on what you can find for ingredients. Also, understanding WHY you end up on a quest for certain ingredients makes it easier to deal with any frustration you might meet due to not being able to locate ingredients as fast as you wish.

You might want to consider learning how to deal with the soil you're using now, while you focus on getting the big picture put together. I can help you with that.

It's possible you can find all you need to make a very good soil at the pet store. You would need a bag of Repti-bark (fir bark), a bag of fine aquarium gravel in a size that ranges from about 3/32-3/16", and a bag of Schultz Aquatic Soil (same as Turface). This stuff will come in bag sizes small enough that it won't crowd you out of your aptmt.

Alternately, if you can find a source for pine bark that looks approximately like that below, we can go a different route.
In the meantime, make sure you understand the link I already left you, then move to the one offered below. That one has some soil recipes and goes into a great deal of detail that will help you make your soil your friend, instead of something you have to learn to DEAL with.

Al

Here is a link that might be useful: More on soils

Another picture:

And hes of again with his ruddy perched water theory!
Plants ARE different, they do have different needs ideally but when we put them in a pot we have to compromise!
But tho a jade will survive in the same soil you put your pothos in, it will suffer if kept the same way!

As I noted before - if you take a little time to educate yourself instead of choosing denial as a way of dealing with PWTs, you'll assuredly gain from the knowledge. YOU might be forced to compromise because of your choices. I am not, because I don't make the same choices. Just because you don't understand the science (not a theory) behind PWTs doesn't mean they don't exist, or that millions of plants don't suffer their ill effects daily.

Of the OP's soil, YOU said, "Soil is probably too heavy and wet." Why do you suppose that is? It's because the particles are so small it supports a copious volume of perched water. Perhaps you can explain how a soil that DOESN'T hold perched water can be too wet?

Perched water is a bane. You can (not so good) choose to deny it's existence and suffer it's ill effects, (better) learn how to mitigate the fallout it precipitates, or (best) eliminate it to the greatest degree possible, which is the wisest choice and healthiest course for your plants.

The link below should help you better understand what you're discussing.

Al

A sketch I made recently:

Here is a link that might be useful: Pay close attn to Figures 1-10

Hmm something you yourself came up with; hence a theory. Not denying its validity Al, just its existence.

Hey larry. Oregon State University extension service is all over this. (In US, extension is the ag college's arm into private ag world) As are many other people. Just try googling perched water table. I don't think tapla holds the claim to have developed this idea, he just uses it to make things better for his growing.

Here is a link that might be useful: OSU extension page on container soils.

I think that there are few that would disagree that at least several thousand growers here at GW alone have benefited from what was to them a revelation that their efforts at container growing were being limited by soils that were too water-retentive - more specifically, soils that supported too much perched water. Probably only one person on this forum denies the existence of perched water tables in the containers of an extremely high % of growers (99%+), because of their soil choice. There is no question that PWT's are limiting, and denying their existence or not taking advantage of readily available knowledge, several times offered, is self-limiting.

I think the science is so settled re PWTS and the acceptance of their existence so widespread that I don't even need to argue their quiddity or deleterious effects on our plantings to retain full credibility. I can also say that if credibility is a consideration of any import, arguing against their existence is an unseemly maneuver ..... but what do I know? ;-)

Al

Wow, all this arguing and ego stroking/defensiveness. Maybe such controversial subjects could get posted in their own threads, so newbies like me can ask a simple question and at least get a somewhat finite answer. Everything else just hijacks the thread, and then anybody who might have some simple, possibly helpful, advice and wants to help out, is scared away because they'll probably get attacked.

The "hijacks" are answers to the original poster's question "And what do I need to do to get rid of it/prevent it from happening again.".

Perched water tables (and how to avoid them) is key to the solution.

tj

Hey, you are the original poster. What the hey? Don't you want the solution to your soil being in solution?

tj

IMO
one of the simplest things you could do in the meantime, is just adjust your watering habits more accordingly, to accomodate your current soils water-retentive nature. :)

Posted by iamsaturdayswarrior 8a - Seattle, WA (My Page) on Sat, Nov 17, 12 at 20:00
"If I were to buy different things like peat moss and perlite and such, could they be stored in 5-gallon buckets or something throughout the year. I'd just stack them in a corner somewhere."

erm,, ya mean like This !? :)~

SS.. IS that my garage? LOL.. Sure looks familiar!! LOL!!

I just wanted to chime in and say that i have C & S in Gritty Mix and most of my tropicals as well as my other houseplants and they are all in the Gritty Mix. I dont worry about over watering them at all. They drain so well and i have no worries about perched water. That means no fungus..mold, fungus nats etc.

My work schedule has me out of town for several days and up to four days at a time. I can water all of my plants at the same time and i never worry that they are getting to much water using this fast draining mix. No problems with the roots sitting in water. So this works well for me. When i come home, i water again and i don't have to be selective as to certain plants needing water or not. They all get a drink and the excess water drains from the container. The only water/moisture needed stays in the mix.

Mix made simple.. I love it!!

It all starts with the soil for healthy roots and then the plants will respond from there.

Just my opinion!!

Laura

Saturday Warrior....do yourself a favor by stopping by a "used" bookstore and pick up a book on "how to treat our houseplants"...they usually come in the dozens of editions, some by noted authors.
Used books on gardening--specifically indoor gardening, usually comes at a very marked down price from the 'new' editions.

Books like this can educate you on the everyday practices of how to keep alive what dresses up our tables, our window sills and our floors.

Some nurseries offer pamphlets on many subjects--including house plants. They usually are made available close to the door and you are invited to take as many as you wish.
They too can be very educational.

Most often they go into detail of "watering habits'...which is the one biggest cause of plant problems. Descriptions of the different soils that houseplants prefer is too usually discussed in great detail.

Hi iamsaturdayswarrior. Welcome to Gardenweb!

"Wow, all this arguing and ego stroking/defensiveness. Maybe such controversial subjects could get posted in their own threads, so newbies like me can ask a simple question and at least get a somewhat finite answer."

You did get this answer. It's not your fault that not everyone agrees. You are just getting alternate info to weigh in your process of attempting to improve your plant.

"Everything else just hijacks the thread, and then anybody who might have some simple, possibly helpful, advice and wants to help out, is scared away because they'll probably get attacked."

I didn't witness any personal attacks, just doubt cast upon ideas, which is purely human nature. If one asks a question, it's unreasonable to imagine that all of the answers will be the same, or in harmony. That's the nature of open discussions.

You have the luxury of taking in this info, and processing it to use as you see fit. This discussion, and any discussion about container contents has opinions and the explanations behind them. Extrapolate what makes sense to you to your plants.

Larry, "But tho a jade will survive in the same soil you put your pothos in, it will suffer if kept the same way!"

IME, yes! All of my plants are happier since changing what's in their pots to anything that drains better, even gravel, which goes against about everything I do, but that's another tangent. The point that perched water is harmful to potted plants is one I believe after making changes and observing the results.

For those not prone to watering plants to death anyway, the observed results may not be as dramatic (and those aren't the folks here asking why their plants are dying.) But as a recovering water-holic, I'm a believer.

Of course, it would be madness to go tearing into plants that are perfectly healthy and growing well to make "improvements." So if that is what one has, that's great no matter how they are accomplishing it.

But going back to the original plant and question here. Fungus is undebatably a sign of too much moisture. How iamsaturdayswarrior chooses to combat that is ultimately up to him/her, by ingesting and processing whatever info he/she chooses to seek. Everyone's contributions and testimonials are valuable, IMHO, for the decision making process.

Iamsaturdayswarrior, this is an ongoing debate, so please don't feel like you caused any dischord. Bottom line, everyone just wants everyone else's plants to do well, and discussing how to achieve that is "the great debate." Welcome to it!