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brumor

Sticky doors on the HFGH 8x10

brumor
14 years ago

I just finished building the frame of the new HFGH 8x10. I am very concerned about the doors- the tops barely move at all on the tracks. It's like it is too tight or something. It looks like maybe there is not enough room between the rollers and the part that slides. It's way too tight. The bottom is fine.

Has anyone encountered this problem? I know I have read about people not liking the doors, but I don't remember a thread about the inability to move the doors on the track.

I am hoping some grease will help. But I think I may actually have to shave a little off the part that is hitting the top door rail.

Comments (19)

  • web4deb
    14 years ago

    I have the 10x12, but I think the track system is about the same. Check to make sure that there is a little bit of space around the top of the door to the bottom of the track, on mine, the door was rubbing against the track. I had to grind (or file) down the extra material along the top and the bottom.

    I finally gave up with the track doors and installed hinges.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Door mods

  • brumor
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Yea, that is exactly what seems to be the problem with mine. It's just too tight and the door rubs on the track- big time. I was thinking I may have to cut it or file down some. I had seen your door mods while researching the project. Great idea! I will probably end up with something like that, but right now I have a lot more to worry about- like the panels, some kind of shelving, etc...thanks!

  • birdwidow
    14 years ago

    As I don't have an HFGH or a sliding door on my GH, I can't add anything useful to the discussion regarding the HFGH tracks, but have read so many posts here on the issue and experienced the same problem with the sliding track doors on an old metal storage shed, that I have come to believe that some of the HFGH door issues may be related.

    The shed doors worked fine at first, then started to stick and the problem turned out to be the foundation. We had set it up on 4 x 4 timbers on perfectly leveled ground and while they were plumb to begin with, all it took was one freeze and a wee bit of ground heave to get them off just enough to affect the door track.

    Fortunately, it was a smallish shed, about 8 X 10, with no direct connection to the frame floor and was attached to the timbers only with long screws, so removing it without the need to disassemble it and redoing the foundation, while a PITA, was doable.

    We dug a narrow, 3 ft. deep trench under the timbers, filled it with road mix, packed it down, soaked it, let it set for a week and replaced the timbers, which proved to be a good thing anyway, as it provided drainage under them, which belayed rot while concurrently preventing heave under them and they lasted as long as the shed, that we tore down a few years ago to make room for my GH, after the shed, the timbers and the doors held up quite well for better than 20 years.

    So check the level of your GH base and if it's off plumb by as little as 1/16 th inch, it could a contributing factor to your door problem.

  • rosepedal
    14 years ago

    On the doors there is a screw or something on the rollers that are adjustable..I wish al was home he could help you...Look to see if there is a screw or something you can turn on the rollers..Barb I know they adjust..:)

  • brumor
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thanks for the suggestions! I was going to install the panels today, but it is way too windy. Instead I am going to work on the door...

  • mudhouse_gw
    14 years ago

    I had the same problem with the doors on my 10x12 when I first installed them; I was able to get the bottom sliding smoothly by adjusting the screw at the bottom that Barb mentioned, but something seemed to be dragging on the top.

    I discovered I could remove the "bind" by inserting some thin material as a shim under the top door part. I know this is clear as mud, but give me a few minutes, and I'll be back with some photos and a better explanation. If it works, it's much easier than grinding anything, and it worked for me. Back soon!
    Sheri

  • brumor
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Yea, it is the drag at the top. I almost can't get them to move! I bought a small file and some lube today at my lunch hour. Just in case =)

  • mudhouse_gw
    14 years ago

    Okay, back again. I found that when I pushed on the very top of part 34, which is the horizontal piece at the top of the door, and moved the door, it slid freely. When I removed the pressure and stopped pushing on the very top, the door stuck.

    So, I loosened the bolts in part 34, just enough to insert a shim under the edge. One one side I used a black rubber washer I had left over from the screws I used to bolt the panels to the frame. You can see the arrow pointing to it in this photo.
    {{gwi:291793}}

    On the other side I used a bit of white vinyl gasket (just to illustrate that anything works, and the thickness in my case only needed to be about 1/16" of an inch.)
    {{gwi:291794}}

    After inserting these shims under the edge as shown, my door moved freely with only the tap of a finger. Hope it's as easy as this for you (no guarantees, LOL.)

    Sounds like you have the bottom working well, but here's a link to the page of my blog where I talked about tweaking the doors. It also covers my efforts to add weatherstripping to close down the gap between the doors (if you have a gap there, some folks don't.) Scroll down to the bottom of the page for "door tweaks."
    Part Four, Assembling the Roof, Windows, and Doors

    Maybe some of this will help...once I fiddled with the doors for a while, I was really happy with them, and I haven't had problems. But, I sure do admit they take some tweaking and fiddling. I hope you can get yours working well.
    Sheri

  • brumor
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Wow. All I can say is THANKS to everyone who suggest solutions. So, I got home and tried the shims- 2 pennies. One door was then PERFECT, the other was still a little sticky, but SO much better. Unreal. What a great tip!

    So I filed down just a little bit on the other door top- and things were looking up. I then tightened up the entire structure, and sprayed a little WD40 type stuff in the tracks. PERFECT. Both doors slide nicely, I can't believe how this all worked. I was expecting the worse.

    Way too windy to install the panels here today, and I didn't want any blowing out. I don't have extra clips yet. Should I consider screwing them in? What kind, size screws do you guys use?

    Again, thank you all SO much. I am very happy this evening!!!

  • mudhouse_gw
    14 years ago

    Good, glad that helped!

    This section of my blog shows how we screwed in our panels, and what type of screws we used. We bought ours at Lowes.
    Adding the Panels

    If you live in a windy area, as I do, I'd strongly recommend screwing in the panels as you go...in other words, I'd recommend against tempting fate by planning on doing it later, especially since you don't have your extra clips yet. I've read too many scary stories here about lost panels (and wrecked frames) when the panels are just installed as per the kits.

    You might want to read my blog from start to finish...or at least skim it...I tried to combine many of the helpful tips offered by many Harbor Freight owners here at GardenWeb (who are a super group of folks, as you can tell!) Hopefully you'll find some helpful info, even though mine is the 10x12. When it comes to the reinforcements, the small difference in greenhouse size shouldn't make any difference. Good luck!

  • brumor
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    I am all over your blog. I am going to Lowes tomorrow. I want my panels securely in place.

    It is very cool how, for not a lot of money, I am going to build something very nice. Modify it, change it a bit...and have a great greenhouse.

    This board has been SO helpful!

  • web4deb
    14 years ago

    I also screwed in the panels and used a ton of extra clips...well worth the small investment. I also put foam weather stripping around every single piece of glazing.... I bought it through mcmaster.com since it's a fraction the cost. I'm not sure what zone you're in, but it will help to keep the drafts out if you're going to try to retain any heat in the colder months.

  • brumor
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    OK, did you have to buy the neoprene washers 4 at a time in those little bags at Lowes and HD? I could not find a box, or larger bag of them.

  • mudhouse_gw
    14 years ago

    No, we were able to buy them in boxes of 100 at Lowes. I think the box is shown about five pictures down on this page of my blog:
    Adding the Panels

  • web4deb
    14 years ago

    I ordered the washer and stainless steel screws from mcmaster.com

  • mudhouse_gw
    14 years ago

    web4deb, that mcmaster.com website looks like a great resource...looks like they carry almost everything known to mankind! Will have to keep them in mind.

  • brumor
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Yea, I did see that on the blog, after I asked the question. I'll look around some more. I did get the panels in today, so I am anxious to screw then all in. Then I need to make the floor and benches!

  • web4deb
    14 years ago

    yup, Mcmaster is great and the shipping charges are fair. In the old days they would only sell to corporate accounts, but now with the new-fangled Internet, they'll sell to everyone! Another one of my favs is surpluscenter.com....

  • brumor
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Well, I found the washers. I think I will start on screwing them in this afternoon, then work on the floor this weekend!

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